May 20, 2001 12:16 AM
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Situated on the west coast of India and one of the country’s most identifiable destinations, Goa is as popular as it is picturesque. Attracting holiday makers and hippies alike, the golden beaches and lush vegetation prove to be a self promoting dream, as word spreads in the West about this still unexploited stretch of paradise. It has exotic blend of East and West and is fast becoming one of the most popular tourist destinations.
When Portuguese explorer Vasco de Gamma set off in search of spices in 1498, he landed upon Goan shores and the West's long fascination with Goa began. By 1510, it had become a Portuguese colony, which it remained until 1961, becoming a prosperous trading centre with a large Christian following. Even with the Portuguese long departed, they have left Goa with much more liberal attitudes towards alcohol and nudity than the rest of India. Despite attempts by the police, drugs and alcohol are still rampant in Goa and intrigue and reputation continue to draw wild crowds.
Leafy Anjuna, is haven and the party capital of Goa, it is famous for it's legendary full moon parties and Wednesday flea market. This quiet and unassuming town is far less developed than expected. Anjuna's many guesthouses, bars and restaurants may make it sophisticated by Indian standards.
One of the main attractions is the long golden expanse of sand and perfect palm tree lined shores, which make Anjuna beach one of the finest in the North of Goa. You may think that you have the beach to yourselves but you never get a moment's peace to relax because of the army of hawkers that persistently offer their services. In particular abundance are young girls that tout jewellery from dawn to dusk, but massage and ear cleaning is available for the more adventurous!
Every Wednesday boats from all over Goa converge on Anjuna for the famous flea market, which draws tourists and locals alike. The normally quiet Southern end of the beach comes to life with a bizarre collection of snake charmers, tight ropewalkers and market sellers who provide a colourful and vibrant scene. The stalls sell everything from Tibetan handicrafts to fluorescent rave gear.
The easiest way to explore Goa is by scooter, which costs around $3- per day. Little further up the coast is Vagator - a small, undeveloped resort that is popular with long-term dwellers. Vagator offers two beaches, the smallest of which, Orzan (or Small beach), is a picturesque secluded cove set against a steep backdrop of palm trees, which, except for the hawkers, provided a perfect hideaway. The ruins of a 17th Century Portuguese fort overlook big Vagator beach. Its broad expanses of sand draw many Indian day-trippers so to avoid the stares serious sunbathers head for the small beach.
At Calangute, people were preparing for the biggest Hindu festival of the year, Diwali; traditionally celebrated by the illumination of houses with candles and the setting off of firecrackers. Children build paper statues to be burnt on the eve of the festival. The roadside displays the statues with the children stopping passers by for donations in an Indian version of 'penny-for-the-guy'. With more hotel complexes springing up everyday, Calangute has radically changed it's image since the 1960's when it played host to the pleasure-seeking hippies that gave Goa it's hedonistic reputation. Calangute now attracts a much more mainstream set of tourists, but has plenty room for everybody. The beach is long with fine golden sand but is crowded in places with rows of sun loungers and cafes, reminiscent to a Spanish holiday resort.
One relaxing week in Goa and, in hindsight, should have travelled around and seen more of Goa but the lure of the beach was too great. Goa is very different to the rest of India, better in some ways because it is not as crowded and polluted. However it does not offer visitors a great insight into the culture and history of India. That said if you are looking for sun and sand and a friendly Indian welcome, Goa could be just the place for you.
