The Queen Of hills. Review on Darjeeling

When it comes to escaping the heat of the steel city Rourkela, nothing short of calamity could deter us. Not even the fears of SARS, induced by the enthusiastic media reports of confirmed cases in Kolkata. So when the first whiff of sub Himalayan air caressed us that early morning in May at New Jalpaiguri railway station, thoughts of SARS or any other impediment to our travel faded into background.

Darjeeling had taken total possession of our souls. The Tata Sumo, once full with `share? passengers, ferried us across a bewitchingly scenic road. Don?t mind the hairpin bends and the sudden steepness of the road as it leaves the outskirts of Siliguri?the drive ahead is much smoother. You could not buy a more rewarding four hour journey with your one hundred rupees.

Houses rising from far below, clutching onto the road precariously, their colourful inhabitants going about their chores excitedly, the ever increasing hoardings bandying about the comforts of hotels announce that you have arrived. Finally from across the bend of the road you get the glimpse of the queen of the hills, coyly sitting atop a ridge as sunlight and mist tease her by turns. The serenity of the journey is badly mauled as soon as you reach the bus stand, the scene here no different from anywhere else in India.

We request our driver to take us up to our hotel, and he obliges?for a steep price of course. No sooner we are in Darjeeling we find ourselves hanging about Chowrasta, the town square on the mall. All kinds of people in their holiday best drone about the place, dotted by curio shops, book stores and photo studios, and eating places like Glenary?s and Frank Moraes. The lane to the left has a few shades for ponies, complete with the dirt and the stench, but the one to the right is chock-full with shoppers haunting for cheap Chinese goodies and garments. The sellers?mostly young women in western attires?are not hard nuts to crack, and they do not pester you at all.

The Observatory Hill sitting at one end of Chowrasta houses the sacred Mahakal temple, and climbing its steps has its own charm. The road from the Chowrasta goes round the hill with a viewpoint on one side. The pony-wallah takes you through this circle if you choose to ride. After a tiresome walk on the steep roads you may like to sit down for a while?there are plenty of wooden benches all around. Sitting there in the evenings, I enjoyed the shows presented by the local authorities, highlighting hill cultures.

Farther off from Governor?s palace lies Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park, a very well kept zoo, showcasing rare collection of Siberian tigers, snow leopards and red pandas. The zoo leads to the prestigious Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and the museum. You have a chance to see the cadets training for their future climb. The museum is packed with facts and memorabilia.

Once in Darjeeling, how can you ignore the ropeway? We had to wait in a long queue for our turns. The ride above the convoluted hill tops was a sheer delight. The cable car trip terminates at a place having a tea processing plant. Guides will offer to show you around the tea-garden and the plant. Whether you choose to go or not, you will get plenty of tea to drink from the many tea shops around the ropeway terminal. At the end of the journey, I thanked God for bringing me back safe?I just can?t get over uncanny feelings whenever I take such rides.

The best way to enjoy the celebrated toy train is to take a trip up to Ghoom, just 8 k.m. away. We clicked a few photos at Batasia loop there, and visited the famous monastery, Yogachoeling Gompa. On our way back, my son reminded me that we had just been to the highest railway station in the world!