Apr 15, 2001 05:29 AM
2095 Views
No visit to the UK is complete without a look around its most northerly shores. John o’Groats, at the very tip of Scotland, is known the world o’er. But there is much, much more to this remote and spectacular area than the tourist attraction itself.
Driving north from Inverness, it seems like a long, long road, but it is well worth the effort.
Like every destination in the north, you think you’re never going to get there. But you do. And you’re faced at first with a hotel and a guesthouse and a straggle of cottages. This is not it. Continue for a half mile, and you can’t go any further. Except into a large expanse of tarmac surrounded by what appears to be industrial units. This is still not it. This is the local authority’s idea of development. Forgive me a gripe, but I preferred John o’Groats BC (Before Council). When you parked on the verges of the single track road, and walked down to the old harbour, past the one, wooden souvenir shop and the signpost to Land’s End, and maybe nipped into the John o’Groats Hotel for a reviving beer and a sandwich. Before heading out again into the constant bracing wind forever blowing off the Pentland Firth, and wondering if you could stomach a boat-trip.
Back to the industrial estate. Don’t be put off. These units actually house some very interesting craft workers, and are not just retail outlets. You can see candles being made, pots being thrown, and artists at work.
Closeby there is a camping/caravan site. A bit basic perhaps, but an ideal stopover point.
From ‘Groats, there is an unclassified road to the east, to Duncansby Head. This is not tourist country. Don’t expect toilets and coffee shops and the comforts of home. Take a good OS map or a local guide book from one of the tourist offices. And get up on your back legs and walk along by and around the Stacks of Duncansby. This has to be some of the most spectacular cliff and coastal scenery in the country. If you’re there in spring or early summer, the cliffs will be teeming with puffins, auks, guillemots and other seabirds. Shags and razorbills. Even rockdoves. But don’t worry if you’re outwith the breeding season. The cliffs themselves are worth the effort.
An even better view can be had by boat, and boat trips to the Stacks of Duncansby are available from ‘Groats harbour, according to season and weather conditions.
Done that? Okay, it’s time to move on. Leave ‘Groats and head west.
As you go, look mostly north. There is the island of Stroma, now uninhabited unless you count the sheep (don’t – you’ll fall asleep). Stroma had a thriving, if small, population, until early this – sorry, last – century, and it’s history is portrayed wonderfully in a small exhibition at ‘Groats.
Stop by at Gills Bay. There’s little indication of it except a lay-by on the north side of the road, but keep your eye on the map and you’ll find it. At the right time of year, you will see so many seals basking here, you’ll think you’ve stumbled upon seal heaven.
Soon you approach Mey. That’s right, the Castle of Mey. As in Queen Mother’s holiday Cottage. The Castle itself is not visible from the main road, being screened by one of the few woodlands to have established successfully in this somewhat inhospitable climate. But if you’re a QM fan, here’s a tip. Take a right (north) turn off the main road (A836), on to an unclassified road at map ref ND311739. It heads for the coast and back again to the main road in a loop. And from its northernmost point, you have uninterrupted views south west to the Castle of Mey.
Been there? Right. Keep going. Next point to note is Dunnet Forest. This may look like a scrubby, scruffy clump of straggly stunted trees. But in this environment, this is a hugely successful piece of arboricultural engineering. Remember, in this part of the world, it’s hard enough to get grass to grow. From the roadside, you see some stunted, twisted Lodgepole Pine. But to the landward side is a thriving commercial spruce plantation. Not very environmentally friendly, perhaps, but better than nothing. The 30 – 50m wide band of Lodgepole was planted to the seaward side (from where the damaging, salt-laden winds come), as a sacrificial shelterbelt, to absorb the salt and the gales, and allow the commercial Sitka to establish. And even if you have no interest in forestry, take a moment to observe these trees. And see how the ones on the coastal side are almost prostrate, and indeed many have died but still provide shelter, and gradually the forest grows taller as it moves inland, and the outer trees take the brunt of all that nature throws at them. Now that it’s a bit more mature, a forest walk has been established. A grand chance to walk out of the wind, and the dog will love it.
And so to Dunnet Head, the most northerly point of the British mainland. Turn right (north) by the Dunnet Bay Hotel. Or stop there for a while. Last time I was there – and it’s not long ago – it had an Italian owner, and the mix of Scottish and Italian cuisine was excellent. (Not on the same plate, obviously).
Keep on the single track, dead-end road to Dunnet Head Lighthouse. Park. Wrap up well. Walk. Anywhere you fancy. Cliffs to die for. Big skies and long vistas. Look across on a clear day to Orkney. Relax. Absorb. Take mental photographs, and run through them in the stressful weeks/months ahead. This is a different world. Take a piece of it home in your mind.
