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Little known but enchanting
Jul 02, 2006 11:29 PM 4426 Views
(Updated Aug 12, 2006 09:55 PM)

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I wonder how many of you have heard of this quaint little hamlet in Himachal, nestling as it does at a height of appx 7400 feet asl, 80 odd kms from Simla? A winding mountain road takes you there from Narkanda in less than an hour, through lush green mountains densely populated by conifers, with a liberal sprinkling of apple and cherry orchards on the way.


We headed there on a short, 5 day vacation in May – our destination was the Banjara Orchard Retreat in Thanedar. As you get out of your vehicle and walk down the hillside over a flight of stone covered steps, you actually do not know what to expect. The retreat comes into view just as you turn the corner. What a view it is! Miles and miles of mountain ranges stretch ahead of you, rolling into an infinite horizon. The slopes are a verdant green as far as the eye can see. The entire mountainside below and around the retreat is covered by orchards, both apple and cherry. There is peace and quiet here..most unusual for a holiday resort, and most welcome for the city – weary like us.


The place has been done up very tastefully with all modern comforts. We had a suite to ourselves, with the kids in a spacious, airy and cheerful room next to ours. A little balcony served as an excellent early morning sitout with a glorious view. Meals taste truly home made and are served, Banjara style, under the cover of a large parachute. The bonfire every evening, captivating with its tint of blue, is a ritual one could actually look forward to! Mr Prakash Thakur, for whom the retreat has been a labor of love, is indeed a wonderful host. He had many a tale to tell us about the recent history of the region, a large fraction of which deals with Satyanand Stokes and apple cultivation.


Consider Thanedar a holiday destination if you are a nature lover and seek solitude from the madding crowds. There is no TV at the resort, and we never for a moment felt the lack of one. Sample cherries or apples there, depending on the season, and get them packed for friends and family back home. Spend your days exploring the region on foot, or car, or both. (We did a small trek to Kothgarh, highlighted by the presence of a quaint little church. Another day trip took us to Hatu Peak..the adventurous can attempt it all on foot.. we decided to cover part of the climb by car. The walk up was wondrous, as was the view from 11,000 feet on that cold, windy morning!). Or simply soak in the pristine beauty of your surroundings, with snow capped peaks not far away, the Sutlej meandering through the valley below, amazing sunsets and those hundreds of twinkling lights at night in the vales below.. I could not once say I had had enough.


If you have a longer vacation, move on to Sangla Valley another 6 hours away. I am told it is breathtakingly beautiful and we hope to be able to see it next time around..but not without a detour to Thanedar!


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