Aug 01, 2001 05:14 AM
4493 Views
I have been visiting Spain for more years that I care to think about. Not that any of those visits were not pleasureable, not that I am weary of the number of years that have passed by.
I first went to Spain in the early 1960's on the instigation of an older friend who had been in Pamplona for the running of the bulls at the same time as Ernest Hemingway. During that visit I visited, amongst other cities, Pamplona and fell in love with Spain.
I speak Spanish nowadays, fairly well, and try to use the language as much as possible when there. It is becoming more dificult, there is nothing so infuriating - no I never get infuriated in Spain - or perhaps daunting, than asking a question in carefully phrased Spanish (or any other language for that matter) and receiving a reply in perfect English (or in your own mother tongue). That aside, and I digress, as always, I will return to my love of Spain.
Amongst those cities that I have visited, over the years, I include those that I love best, in no particular order. Taragonna, Barcelona, Madrid, Valencia, San Sebastian, and Estepona. I leave the latter until last, (well I couldn't have the latter first could I) because it is this city or more properly, town, that I want to opine about.
The most southern part of Spain is the Costa del Sol or Andalucia to give it its proper title. The district of Andalucia called Malaga (as opposed to the city of Malaga) and therein, just to the West of Marbella, is Estepona.
What I love about this town is that it is truly Spanish, untouched by the influx of tourists as is the resorts further East, Fuengirola or Benalmadena Costa. Not that I do not like those towns as they each have their own particular charm. Estepona has none of the razz ma tazz associated with Holiday resorts. It has one of the longest, cleanest (Blue Flag and all that) beaches on the Costa del Sol if not in the whole of Spain. There are tall watch towers, manned all day (Think of Bay Watch - I actually have a photograph of a lifeguard in a red bathing suit!!).
The town is built on a couple of hills running back to the Sierra Nevada and you walk straight off the main road, onto a wide, long, clean passeo that is thronged by gardens containing all manner of succulent and cactus plants. The beach, as I have said, is covered by clean crisp sand and is about 100 meters down to the sea (frontage is about 2 kilometers) and this is not covered by offending sun beds or pedalos etc., it is truly natural.
Parallel with the main road, one block back from the front, is a pedestrianised area which serves as a ramblas for the evening walk up and down by all the families. Further up the hill is the town hall in the town square which is a very interesting and welcoming place to visit. You are welcome because the Andalucians are very hospitable and are also intensely proud of their history - Iberian and Moorish mixture.
There is the inevitable bull ring just to the West of the centre of town and this is particularly small with a beautiful museum of culture above it. There is no charge for entrance and you will be guided around by a lady that would seem to be more at home with a big family of children. She is so proud of the Corrida.
Almost opposite the Bull ring is the Marina, locally called the Puerto del deportivo (The port of sport - referring to water sports) and this is really something as it is a little bit of overspill from Marbella and the other large Marina along the Coast towards Gibraltar, Sotogrande. There are many berths for quite large vessels as well as an area for the local fishermen. On Sundays there is a cultural come traditional market at the Marina where there are also many restaurants, bars and cafes as well as a small supermercado and newspaper/book shop. This is more than a Marina it is a small hub of local society. In fact, for those that do not want to go the further mile into town it is an ideal stopping place for a meal of top quality or a snack at one of the cafes.
On Wednesdays there is a large open air market just to the West of the town centre which covers some Hectares. This is not the usual market with what I call ''Tat'' purchased at some warehouse made for the job of moving rubbish, this market has all the savour and flavour of Andalucian cuisine, fruits and vegetables, herbs and spices, meat and fish. There are some very good clothes on show as well as well made, leather footwear.
On Sundays there is also another kind of market at Manilva, a small town to the west of Estepona (About 8Km) where you can see the largest car boot fair on the Costas, one difference, everything that you see came out of a Spanish loft and therefore, everything is so collectable!! Coins, medals, lamps, ''Genuine'' Moorish cannon balls!! Further west in Sottogrande, there is another Marina, also very grand and for the Golfing set and, here, on a Sunday, there is a craft fair - something different again, many of the stall holders are English or German or French and the artifacts are genuine craft items such as polished fossils from the Atlas mountains in Morrocco (You can see Morrocco across the water).
Enough of this Market Place talk - Estepona, for this is the town that we came to see, is an, unspoilt, beautiful, little, typically Spanish, town. It is a beautiful place for a very restful holiday although it is a wonderful centre to tour the southen part of Spain. Malaga is about one hour away by car to the East and Marbella is only fifteen minutes away in the same direction. It is only about half an hour to Gibraltar. Cordoba, Seville, Granada and Ronda are within easy reach. Next time I write I will let you know about a very little known Victorian Railway Journey in the Sierras from Algeciras just across the bay from Gibraltar. Gib is worth an Op on its own.
If you are a golfer, there are 42 golf courses from Gibraltar to Malaga, two in Estepona itself, the quality is tremendous.
How to get there - Malaga by Go airlines nearly every day from Stansted and cheeeeeap. Malaga from any airport in Europe. About one hour by car or taxi also inexpensive. One bedroom, furnished, villa by the sea, in a complex with a swimming pool would set you back about £24 per day add another £5 for a two bedroom. My wife will kill me - she thinks that Espona belongs to her and now, 6 million holiday makers will descend upon us. Never mind, all welcome.
