Mysore known as 'Garden City' or 'City of Palaces' situated just 130 km away from Bangalore in Karnataka in south India. One of the most beautiful thing about this royal city is doesn’t matter how much India became westernized, Mysore still retain same charm of imperial royal splendors with nice blend of medieval cultural heritage and modern industrialization.
History
According to Myth, Mysore was ruled by the demon-king Mahishasura. Goddess Parvathi took birth as Chamundeswari and slew the demon. Later Goddess resided atop the Chamundi Hills after killing the demon and became family deity of Wodeyar dynasty.
Until 10th century, Mysore’s history is vague. The Ganga dynasty established its reign in the 2nd century ruled over the Mysore until 10th century. Cholas and Chalukyas followed Gangas and ruled for over a century. Hoysalas took over Mysore from Cholas in the 12th century. After Hoysalas, The Hindu kingdom of Vijaynagar was founded at Hampi in 1336. Wodeyars founded Mysore dynasty in 1399 as feudal of the Vijayanagar Empire. With the fall of the Vijayanagar Empire by Bijapur’s sultanates by 1565, Wodeyars declared themselves as Mysore rulers. Wodeyars ruled over Mysore for almost next 400 years until their princely state merged into republic of India in 1956 except brief period of Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan.
In 17th and 18th century, Mysore flourished as one of the biggest kingdom in south India until their general Hyder Ali repelled to establish a capital in nearby Srirangapatna. Wodeyars couldn’t stand against power of Hyder Ali and his son Tipu Sultan. Luckily for Wodeyars, British defeated Tipu Sultan in battle of Mysore in 1799 and handed Mysore back to the Wodeyar kings. In 19th and 20th century, Wodeyars transformed Mysore into modern town with cultural arts of simmering silk and sandalwood, well-planned shady avenues, beautiful temples, majestic palaces, and sprawling gardens.
My Experience
I am lucky enough to visit Mysore twice in my life. First time it was in 1997 for the Kirloskar training from work and other one is in 2005 with my wife. In Feb 2005, during my vacation of Ooty and Coonoor, we flew into Banglore from Ahemadabad, stayed overnight at Banglore, and spent couple days in Mysore on en route to Banglore-MySore-Ooty.
We rented a car with driver-cum-guide from Banglore and jump-start my wife's first south Indian vacation in her life. She never been to south of Bombay in her life so, this was her first opportunity to savor not only south Indian food from region itself but breathtaking scenery of Nilgiries. We left Saturday morning from Banglore around 9:00 AM and in minutes we are on 2-lane Banglore-Mysore highway. Our first stop was Maddur for its famous Maddur Wadai and for my wife, all her lifelong rumors about real south Indian food from south India itself was dream come true.
As we were approaching Mysore, we had our chances to visit Tipu Sultan's ruined fort in Srirangapatna but we skipped it and reserved it for our return journey back to Banglore. Once we drove into Mysore, we checked in pre-booked motel nearby Mysore palace. Since there are lots of activities including lively bazaars and restaurants nearby palace so, we preferred to stay in that area to leisurely wander around streets during the nighttime.
Within an hour, we decided to spend our romantic afternoon at the Brindavan Gardens. Brindavan Gardens are located at a distance of 20 kms northwest of Mysore. These terraced gardens of lawns, recreational stadiums, pools, and fountains laid at the foot of the Krishnarajasagar Dam are one of kind gardens in the south India. You must visit these gardens in the afternoon to avoid dark shadows of the dam during evening times. One of the most breathtaking moments of the gardens is changing landscape as evening approaches. During night the gardens are transformed into a magical fairyland when the concealed colored lights near the flowerbeds and fountains are turned on. As night approached, we took boat in the lake and ferry over to another section of the garden for one of major attraction dancing musical fountains (normally open during the weekends). Some of the most recreational activities in the garden are napping on well-maintained lawns or stroll around pathways surrounded by numerous fountains. Once we came back to Mysore town, we pleased ourselves by enjoying south Indian dishes and world famous Mysore Paak, shopping in lively bazaars, and wandering around the well laid out streets.
Next day, it was Sunday. We work up early to finish up sightseeing of usual suspects like Chamundi Hill, Lalit Mahal Palace, St.Philomena Church, and mysterious Amba Vilas Palace. Our first stop was Chamundi Hills and Chamundeswari Temple. There are two ways you can reach the top of the hill. Either drive up the winding lanes or climb up the 1000 steps to the temple. We took first approach, drive up to the hill, and parked our car in front of gigantic statue of Mahishasura. Since there was already long narrow queue to see devi because of Sunday morning, we wander around the temple and enjoyed the temple's architecture and panoramic view of Mysore town below. As we were driving down, we stopped by at big black 4.8m tall Monolithic statue of Nandi carved from a single piece of black-granite and enjoyed chilled sugar cane juice in hot and humid south Indian February weather.
Our next stop was Lalit Mahal Palace situated at the foot of Chamundi Hills. Built in 1921, this spectacular white stone palace initially housed royal guests and now converted into five-star hotel. We visited a palace and museum. Next stop was most awaited visit to one of the south India’s architectural wonder of 20th century, Amba Vilas Palace famously known as Mysore Palace. This marvelous palace is situated in the middle of Mysore city surrounded by main access roads of the city. Built in 1912, Mysore Palace is known for its unique Indo-Saracenic architecture dominated by domes, turrets, arches, colonnades, canopies, pavilions, and frescoes. Mysore palace is a three storied stone building of fine gray granite with deep pink marble domes dominated by a five-storied spires with a gilded dome mounted by a single golden flag. We visited this awe-inspiring palace as guided tour of antique artifacts, Darbar Hall, Golden Throne, Ambavilasa (Diwan-e-khas), and Marriage Hall.
After lunch, we visited majestic St.Philomena Church. This colossal church is known for its lofty gothic style 165 feet high twin spires. We spent our late afternoon by visiting Karnataka government run Cauvery Arts Emporum, Silk weaving factory, Sandal oil factory for silk saris, ivory antiques, and sandal wood crafts. After dinner we visited Illuminated Mysore Palace, normally lit on Sundays, holidays, or festivals. It was an awe-inspiring unforgettable sight of 97,000 bulbs shining brightly illuminating palace, courtyards, and its entrances in the dark shadows of the night.
Other Attractions
Mysore Zoo, Railway Museum, and Folklore Museum
Excursions
(#) Srirangapatna (12 km) – Tipu Sultan’s fort, Gumbaz (Tipu’s mausoleum), Daria Doulat Bagh (Tipu’s pleasure palace), and Jumma Masjid
(#) Somanathapura (32 km) – Hoysala style 13th century Lord Channa keshava temple
(#) Nanjangud (24 km) – 11th century Shiva temple
(#) Gomatagiri(Shravanagutta) (18 km) – 5 m high statue of Gomateswara carved out of a single granite rock. Panoramic view of Krishnarajasagar and Chamundi Hill of Mysore
(#) Sivasamudram (80 km) - twin water falls (350 feet), Gaganachukki and Bharachukki
