May 18, 2001 02:00 PM
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Like London and New York Mumbai pulsates to a 24-hour rhythm, but it is Polluted, overpopulated and at times down right filthy. A staggering percentage of Mumbai's inhabitants are thought to live on the streets, while at the same time,it has an ever-expanding cluster of bars and restaurants that cater for Mumbai's other residents, the seriously rich.
There is poverty all around, the smell is disgusting and the sights of disfigured beggars and street children can be heart wrenching. This is truer outside the temples and mosques and in front of the Fruit Juice and Ice Cream shops at Haji Ali. But ignore all this and there are plenty of gems lurking around in Mumbai.
Gateway of India is Mumbai's most recognisable landmark. Built in honour of the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in 1911, it was once the main gateway into India. Today though it only serves to welcome back day-trippers from the nearby Elephanta Island. India gate was extremely busy, the surrounding concourse full of balloon sellers, peanut vendors and snake charmers, all vying for our last rupees. The gate itself is a large and impressive structure, with scenic views across the harbour but the crowds meant we moved on quickly. Overlooking the scene is the grand Taj Mahal hotel, where Bollywood movie stars and ministers stay when they are in town.
A five-minute walk from India gate, past the remarkable Flora fountain, brings you to Colaba Causeway, Mumbai's version of Oxford St. Crammed full of western shops, cinemas, bars and restaurants the causeway is the place where young Mumbai hipsters hang out. Unfortunately, there are as many street vendors as there are shops, making it crowded and a little seedy, but for those who like to shop, this could be paradise. Stores such as Levi's and Benetton sell clothes for around half the price in the West.
The stench from the fish market at Sassoon docks is enough to put you off eating fish again. Dumped on the filthy floor was the day's catch - piles of fish of all descriptions surrounded by flies. The most horrifying sight was the hundreds of women and children who squatted in the piles of shrimps shelling them by hand. The stench of fish was unbelievable but the colour and life of the market proved to be an eye-opener.
The real life action is at the Municipal Dhobi Ghats, where Mumbai sends its laundry. The ghats, are usually off limits to visitors but we were allowed in and what a sight it was. It felt like we had stepped back in time about two centuries. Men and boys scrubbed away, beating the clothes to a pulp by hand and thrashing them on stone slaps. The water was a murky grey colour, but the washed up clothed looked very clean and fresh smelling.
Providing a sharp contrast to the ghats is Marine Drive, home to the richest of India's residents. Movie stars and celebrities make this 'the' place to live in Mumbai and tatty looking apartments regularly change hands for millions of dollars. It was nicknamed the 'Queens necklace' by the British because of the dramatic curve of its street lights. At the top of Marine Drive is Chowpatty beach where, it seems, Mumbai dumps its rubbish but it still draws hordes of Indian tourists eager to have their picture taken next to the sea.
As the financial capital, Mumbai seemed a million miles away from the rural existence in India. It is hard to believe that in India the so advanced and the so technically backward can exist alongside each other in the same country. Part of India's beauty, though, is its diversity: From the terrifying bus journeys and jerky Camel Safaris to the breathtaking sights of the Taj Mahal, It is unbelievable and shocking but the friendliness of the people in spite of such adversity is truly touching.
