Apr 07, 2001 03:41 AM
4361 Views
Not a lot of people know this, but Milan is a truly fabulous city.
It has long had a reputation as a business capital, an industrial centre, and, at best, a staging-post for tourists heading north to the Lakes.
But if you give it a chance, you'll find that it has a huge amount to offer if you are willing to spend time there, particularly if you do all your sightseeing on foot, by underground or tram. Its older parts have an air of bygone elegance and grandness, with imposing architecture suggesting power and wealth. The station alone (thanks to Mussolini) is worth a visit, even if you came by plane.
Undoubtedly the most worthwhile sight in Milan is the cathedral, a masterpiece in gothic architecture which reminds me of an enormous wedding cake or a giant piece of lace. Apparently it has 4,500 life-size human statues on the outside alone. Bizarre or what? Go inside and wander around gazing at the ceiling with other awestruck tourists - take care not to bump into anyone too. Look out for the astrological ''clock'' on the marble floor to the right as you enter, too.
Don't just be satisfied with the inside of this brilliant piece of architecture, though. To do this would be to miss the best bit of all. If you go left, around the Cathedral, away from the main entrance, you'll find a little door in the side of the building. Here you buy a ticket from a little man in a glass box, and for a mere handful of coins can purchase eagle-eye views of the city from the terraces on the roof. The climb itself is fascinating, as you get to walk along the different roof levels and finally arrive at the top, where there are not usually too many tourists. You can sit up here for ages and admire the skyline or just watch the little dots moving about in the big square below.
A tram from the western end of the Piazza del Duomo will take you along to the church, ''Santa Maria Della Croce'', where Leonardo da VInci's Last Supper is still kept. VIewings are always busy, but the secret is to ring ahead and book a viewing time, which, as far as I can remember, is actually free. They don't let anyone in who just turns up at the door, but if you have booked a time you can go straight in. You can get the phone number from the Tourist office on the south side of the Piazza del Duomo. If you're dead lucky they might even ring it for you too.
Another great thing to do is to go down to the market in the south-east of the city. It runs along the river bank and can be reached by tram from one corner of the Duomo square. The market is a cool place to just wander and pick up some good bargains on clothes and jewellery, etc. There are also local crafts on sale and bizarre junk stalls where you can find, well, frankly weird things too. What more could you ask?
One last thing - don't be afraid of the underground system - it's easy to use once you have bought tickets - ''bighlietti'', as you just need one for each journey, regardless of how far you are going. (a bit like the new Tube carnets here). The system is much easier to understand than the Paris Metro (not saying much, I know!) and even I had mastered it in a day or so. Plus you won't be taking overpriced taxis. Go on - travel with the people of Milan!
