May 18, 2003 09:44 PM
3550 Views
(Updated May 18, 2003 09:47 PM)
Hey pals, Hope many have enjoyed my rvus on two wheels and this time it is a bit different. I’m into maintenance. Before starting my rvu I’d like to confess: I don’t know much about the mechanicals. Yet I have driven a hell of vehicles and can give any info on it(General maintenance is not by me). Then y write a rvu on maintenance? Is it that important?
THE NEED 4 MAINTENANCE
When u get a bike, one utmost question in ur mind will be its engine quality. The preservation and enhancement of this quality is known as maintenance. In this era of modern wheels it is not performance or mileage alone that deserves demand but the owning and riding pleasure are also included. It is extremely diffi to have a bike that demands frequent visits to the doctor, also if it is harsh to drive and delivers lower mileage and performance. Why all this? I’ve got a good bike, I’ve read rvus on MouthShut, I’ve gone 4 a test drive, why is it performing poorly? Is it my bad luck? The answer is simple… U haven’t maintained it properly.
SELECTING A BIKE
Maintaining an already bad bike is of no use. When u buy a bike make sure u do a lot of research on it, read rvus on MouthShut and check out my rvu THE BEST BIKES IN INDIA in the best 20 bikes section. It is some what a guiding program helping u to select ur bike in terms of ur preferences(self ad!). Then go for a test drive(it is a must) covering atleast 10 kms. If U r satisfied with the engine, transmission, alignment etc, then go and buy it. I don’t recommend a second hand bike very much unless u know that it is in a very good condition. Please give preference to the engine condition and smoothness.
A Tip: A good engine doesn’t sacrifice mileage much for performance. Eg: FieroF2, Pulsar
RUNNING IN…
The first thing u have to do on getting a new set of wheels is running in. What is this run in? Usually bikes make use of an ICE, Internal Combustion Engine. Energy is produced by burning fuel(petrol+ air compressed) inside a cylinder. This heat energy produced moves a piston to and fro inside the cylinder as a result of high pressure. This to and fro motion it converted to rotatory motion that powers the vehicle. When the bike is new the cylinder, mostly made of aluminium will also be new and there will be friction b/w the inner walls of the cylinder and the piston sometimes scrapping it. To prevent this damage the vehicle should never be reved hard. If done the bore dia may increase slightly resulting in leakage of fuel and hence poor performance and mileage. Also it is adviced to replace engine oil frequently so that the scraps are removed. The vehicle should be driven in optimum conditions without straining the engine at low revs or damaging it at high revs. Make gentle use of the clutch and brakes. It is better to drive continuously at half the top speed or even a little lesser than that. Don’t keep twisting the throttle often and close it fully while braking. Treat the vehicle gently and keep it clean by washing every week. Avoid driving on bad roads and steep roads. Never give the bike to anyone, not even to ur friend. It is also better to drive solo during run in. The vehicle should be driven like this for atleast 5000 kms!(but it does a lot of good) which is known as the Run in Period. Lastly drive carefully, strictly avoid accidents.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
Reference: Dilip Bam - BikeGuru on https://cybersteering.com
1) Clean spark plug regularly. Every 750 km for two stroke bike and every 1, 500 km for four-stroke bike. Clean spark points(electrodes) with emery paper and innards with some aluminium wire. After this wash with petrol.
2) Always use correct recommended grade of engine oil as recommended in OWNERS MANUAL.
3) Ensure that the oil is in sufficient quantity as recommended. Check with dipstick or inspection window or bleed-plug nut.
4) Ensure correct air pressure in tyres as recommended in OWNERS MANUAL
5) Check cables regularly for kinks, bends and frayed ends. Especially check ends. If one or more strands appears broken, replace immediately. Don't try to save money by ignoring it till later time. If cable breaks during journey, OPPORTUNITY LOSS will be far greater than cost of new cable. Also lubricate annular space between cable inner and outer, by holding one end and letting cable hang vertically and letting lubricating oil drip into annular space.
6) Ensure chain tightening. There is a chain tensioner on both sides of the rear axle having graduations. Ensure that the matching marks are equal on both sides. You have to loosen the axle nut before tightening or loosening the chain. Keep chain play at @ 12 mm(you can do this by moving chain up & down with a long nosed pliers thru inspection window in chain cover), or as recommended in OWNERS MANUAL.
7) Check all bulbs. Replace fused ones.
8) Check wiring for worn insulation and loose connections.
9) Check brake liners. If the brake tightening nut has gone up to the maximum threads, or the brake makes a metallic sound then it means that the liners are worn out. Replace them.
10) Ensure that front fork is not leaking. If it is, replace oil seals.
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