Mar 27, 2009 12:16 PM
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*Pune - The city of delight and spirit
*This time I was in pune for two noble reasons - gastronomic and spiritual. I was feeling extrememly hungry after reaching Pune and wanted to hog on some good food. Every time I was in Pune my friend insisted to take me to Koyla- a well known Hyderabadi Restaurant in Koregaon Park.
Due to other engagements we could never make it to this famed place. But this time I decided to try it out finally. The friend went on and on about the amazing mutton biryani she had till we reached.It was for her that my expectation reached to new heights.
I was made to believe this was the absolute heaven on earth just we needed to get inside to taste it.Also, the ambience of Koregaon Park amazed me with the Goras in saffron attire (Osho Devoutees), freaking out college students, variety restaurants ranging from Asia Pacific to Japansese in each lane ----- it was one of the most unique place in the country where you will get to see the culmination of all colours!
*In search of 'heaven'...
*Finally we were in front of Koyla. Immediately I was taken back in time to the long bygone Qutub Shahi era. Standing on the door was a darban, dressed in the traditional garb of a sherwani, complete with the elegant rumi topi- the cap and mojadis- the traditional footwear. This certainly made me happy, as I got ready for the experience of a lifetime.
But we were informed that we had to wait for 15-20 minutes as the place was full. We enrolled our names and crossed the road to go to the Natural's ice cream outlet on the other side for passing the time. We got ourselves two yummy malai cones and returned to Koyla, only to know that we can go inside. Now this was a really amazing experience, entering such a restaurant slurping malai cones. Anyway least bothered by the strange looks on the peoples faces we settled down.
The place certainly gave the royal feeling. I started to look around. The beautiful tapestries are all done in masnat art, which is the traditional art form of Hyderabad. The truly palatial ambience of the restaurant is brought out by every little aspect of its decor. The walls whisper stories of a forgotten past, eg The Golconda Fort, which was once the envy of many a king, a beautiful dancer who had the Prince mesmerized by her gentility and grace.
The old photographs of the Nizam are mystical snapshots of the royals, now long gone. The bar is set in the backdrop of a doli- a grand procession carried out in the yesteryears which took the newly wed bride to her new home, with a great deal of pomp and fare. Typical Hyderabadi bangles with their vibrant colours add an element of joy and mischief to the stately and elegant atmosphere.
The tables at Koyla are an adaptation of sigdis with glass tops. The regular divans are made to resemble traditional royal seats.The uniforms of the ushers are typical of the Nizam era- chauhashas with kamar bandhs tied around the waist.
The shahi dawat...
Pretty satisfied with what I saw I was already writing a mental review of Koyla. In the meantime my friend was leafing through the menu card which had a delicate velvet cover and zari work all over it.Right from tantalizing starters, known as Gazak, to exotic desserts, one can find food fit for a king in this exotic restaurant, my friend informed me.
The Gazaks include dishes like the Kursi Miyane, Lukhmi, Gosht ke Sev, Kabab Roti and others. The specialty of Hyderabadi food is Kababs and so there are certain food items that are actually cooked on heated stone. The kababs have been placed in a special section called Nizam Ki Bhatti Se- one can pick from among Kabab ka Khazana, Patthar ka Gosht, and Lagan ka seekh, Seekh ke Qaafli kabab, Kalimiri chooza, Lazeez, Boti kabab and others.
Apart from this Koyla also offers Shorbas and other dishes like Saalim Raan, Chippe ka Gosht, Bansi Raja ke Thikkay, Nizami Pasande, Mirchi ka Saalan and many more. The main course is set under Hyderabadi Khaas which includes items such as Haleem, Nahari (trotters), Chutney Gosht, Burhani, to name a few. These can be accompanied by an assortment of rotis. Another segment of the food is the Degh Se. Consisting of the rice preparations, this section offers dishes like Biryanis, Qubooli, Divani Handi, Zarda Pilaf and others.
The menu certainly looked delicious, for me it was like a child exploring new world. I am a connoisseur of mutton biryani so that was a default choice. Apart from that, my friend suggested to try out Haleem, one of the famous Hyderabadi dishes. I was not that sure, but she said it was a favourite among Hyderabadi food lovers. So we ordered for Haleem with butter roti and Mutton Biryani.
As we waited for the food, we kept on slurping on the malai ice cream and looking around. I was also clicking pictures of interesting things like the colorful chandeliers, bangles, sahi sofas. I noticed one thing though, the tables were all so close to each other that there was hardly any movement space and room for privacy. So if you are planning a romantic evening, dont opt fot this place.
... and finally the khana arrivesSteaming food was served in copper vessels, with traditional silver cutlery to go with it, the surai( ancient water jug) was of the nizam era and the best one was the box in which the bill was presented.
So we took the first bite of the Haleem wrapped in a piece of roti. Me and my friend threw confused look at each other. If this was the favourite dish of hyderabadi food lovers then I have a big question on their taste, I thought. Seemed like my friend also had similar thoughts that was well conveyed by her shocked expression. No one said anything, as I was respecting the fact that she was treating me and she would feel bad if I said anything.
But after the fifth bite I could not take anymore. I gulped down the porridge like substance forcefully and looked with a harrased expression at my friend. She was having her roti without haleem and said, this haleem thing is amazingly bad. I could not agree less. I was having Haleem for the first time, so cannot comment on how authentic it was, but at least I can identify good taste and frankly speaking, this haleem tasted exactly like salted firni(a sweet dish), never had anything as pathetic as this.
... Is this 'heaven' ?
We waited for the biryani, at least that was something known to me. But can't even explain the disappointment I had when it was served. Mint leaves and orange, yellow rice made me squirm in horror. It looked very similar to any so called biryani served in any B grade restaurant. And the moment I had a helping, my worst fears were confirmed. I can vouch one can get better biryani on the foot paths of south Kolkata. How can one murder the aroma of mutton so brutally by adding mint to it? Also the rice was not well cooked and the mutton pieces were hard.I glared at my friend and she just replied with a sorry face.
*I am dead but certainly not in 'heaven'...
*I can understand the taste of the food has been changed to suit the tastes of a broader spectrum of people(read forigners, who hardly know the real taste of Indian foods) , then why dare call it an authentic Hyderabadi cuisine restaurant? I had expected a lot out of it, but it left me extremely dissappointed. And the bill was equally bad.
