Nov 01, 2004 02:35 PM
3053 Views
(Updated Mar 08, 2005 03:31 AM)
?Kandahar? --- the name evokes echoes of mountain-passes, snow-capped peaks, bone-chilling weather?.and meats roasting over slow fires in smoky dhaabas.
However, when one enters ?Kandahar? the speciality Indian restaurant at the Oberoi, one is greeted by a cheery and somewhat antiseptic melange of cream-coloured walls, parquet flooring, polished brass and potted palms. Tasteful? Yes. Bright? VERY?.and so lacking in atmosphere! Not helped by the tinkle-tonk of the ?live entertainment? --- Bollywood hits played on the Jaltarang.
But the food belies the initial impression that says ?nothing special?. Because this restaurant serves what can only be called Grand Classical Gourmet North-Indian cuisine, correctly and exquisitely prepared.
The starters are pretty much par for the course. Tandoori Jhinga (jumbo-sized) exorbitantly priced; Barra Kebabs, Sheesh Kebabs, Chicken Tikka and Malai Kebab, all around Rs. 500 to 600. I found the Malai Kebabs to be among the best I?ve ever had, delicately flavoured with yoghurt and spices.
One of the signature entrees (and among the most expensive at Rs.925) of this restaurant is the Raan. And deservedly so, as it is a semi-religious experience. A leg of prime lamb, marinated and simmered over a slow fire for ages, it truly melts in the mouth. Dry and subtly-flavoured, its a must-have for those who think of Indian cuisine as perennially ?oily and spicy?. And instead of accompanying this with the ubiquitous Biryani (which would have made the meal death-by-meat!) we chose something unusual; and not on the menu. That rarest of rare delicacies from Kashmir, ?Guchhi? (wild mushrooms) in a curry flavoured with saffron and served with white rice. This was truly special, an explosion of myriad tastes on the palate; though somewhat short-changed on the saffron!
Surprising, since my earlier experiences at the restaurant spoke otherwise. Also, the Raan lacked ?something??. a ?nazaakat? if you will; that indefinable touch of magic that raises mere cooking to culinary art. And soon we discovered why --- Chef Chintan was NOT on duty. It was his day off; and alas, not our day.
But this is nit-picking. Even at marginally less than its best, this restaurant is formidable. And, before I forget, mention must be made of the divine Rasmalai that concluded the meal. Sweet and succulent, it benefitted by the addition of more crushed nuts and spices, which were readily provided on request. And the ultimate wash-down ? the magnificent Kahva, aromatic tea with herbs and spices (also from Kashmir) served in an authentic copper samovar.
An entire meal, with superlative service, at over Rs.4000 for two, including chhaas and jeera-pani. Add a bottle of the excellent Oberoi house-wine, Chinkara, and you have spent Rs. 6000. Definitely NOT cheap! But then, neither is the experience.
And if they were to dim the lights, throw out the kitschy ?entertainment? and make the décor more characterful; every meal could well become a lingering memory.
