Jodhpur known as Sun City is situated in the rugged terrain of hostile Marwar at the southeastern corner of Thar Desert in Rajasthan. Its one of most populated city of Rajasthan, geographically almost center in the state of Rajasthan, and can be easily accessed from major tourist centers like Jaisalmer, Jaipur, and Udaipur.
History
After Mohammad Ghori destroyed Rathors at their Kanauj (Uttar Pradesh) kingdom in 1193, Rathors reestablished themselves in Mandore at the outskirts of Thar Desert in the rugged terrain of Marwar. Later Rao Jodha decided to shift base to a safer spot and moved his capital from Mandore to Jodhpur that he founded in 1459. At the top of hill, Jodha built his stronghold called the Chintamani fort, which was later called Mehrangarh fort.
Jodhpur has seen bloodiest history in all princely states in Rajputana. Rao Maldeo opposed Mughal Emperor Akbar’s army in 16th century and lost Ajmer to the Mughal Army. Later his son Rao Udai Singh established matrimonial and military relationships by giving his sister Princess Jodhabai to Akbar and established Jodhpur as flourishing trading and commercial center. Later Jaswant Singh lost his princely state to Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1658 after he supported Dara. Jodhpur reclaimed by Ajit Singh in 1707 after Aurangzeb’s death. Later Jodhpur continues to flourish under British Raj while getting protection against Marathas. In 1951, after independence, princely Marwar state merged into India.
My Experience
While I was on my weeklong circular tour of Rajasthan in Feb 2005, we enjoyed colorful medieval cultured towns like Udaipur, Ranakpur, Kumbhalgarh, Jaipur, Bikaner, and Jaisalmer. Even though I suggest anyone traveling Jodhpur to set aside at least two days for sightseeing in and around city, we had little more than half-a-day at Jodhpur as we had to drive hurriedly back to Gujarat after enjoying couple days at the deserts of Jaisalmer. Compare to Jaisalmer, Jaipur, and Udaipur, Jodhpur is less attractive sightseeing town but it is still worth a visit to savor rich past of marwar history.
After we left Jaisalmer in early morning, we reached Jodhpur around 11.00 AM, and our first stop was famous and arguably most impressive fort of India, Mehrangarh Fort built in 1459 by Rao Jodha on the craggy hilltop. The fort stands 122m above the plains and rises up to a height of 40m on sheer rock with fortified walls ranging from 7-24m in thickness guarded by 7 fortified gates. Once we came out from our car in the fort’s parking lot, we were astonished by the gigantic size of fort. In the single glance, you could see both base and top of this iconic fort of the city. If you walk towards farther edge of parking lot away from fort, you can get your first panoramic aerial view of city.
As we were walking towards Jaipol, imposing entrance of the fort converted into ticket counter, I was visualizing how tough it was to penetrate into this near impregnable fort. You could raise your head and see never-ending nearly straight vertical walls most probably patrolled by thousands of soldiers and cannons centuries ago. Most interior palaces of the fort has been converted into Museum and accessed by visitors. You can access fort’s museum either by taking lift all the way up or walk on winding ramp and passing through imposing gates all the way up to the museum complex. We decided to take lift while going up and ramp while walking down.
Once we reached up to the fort museum complex via lift, we entered into fort’s eastern terrace. Here we got another panoramic view of Jodhpur town. Majorities of buildings and Brahmin houses painted with Blue color in the attempt of making Jodhpur as Blue City. Next, we passed through Suraj Pol, a entrance into palace complex in fort and walked into Shringar Chawk, a courtyard from where you can access multi-story multi-palaces museum – Palki Khana, Daulat Khana, Sileh Khana, Phool Mahal, Takhat Mahal, Moti Mahal, and Sheesh Mahal. Museum tour is self guided one-way tour which showcase royal cradles, marble thrones, miniature paintings, traditional costumes, weapons, queen and king’s royal bedrooms, artifacts, musical instruments, glassware, wooden furniture etc. Once we done with the museum, we walked nearly half-a-mile all the way up to Chamunda Mata Temple at the back of fort while leisurely strolling on the ramparts. Ramparts are highest point of the fort complex where series of cannons are still in place and you can have another chance for panoramic vista of city.
After spending another half an hour at the top of fort, we descended down windingly through Loha Pol – handprints of royal satis in 1843, Fateh Pol – commemoration of return of Raja Ajit Singh as Rajpur king in 1707, to all way down to Jaipol - commemoration of victory of Raja Man Singh over Jaipur in 1808, our original entry point of the fort. Once we came back to parking lot, we had fresh coconut water, and enjoyed another majestic view of impregnable fort.
As we were driving back to city, we stopped at Jaswant Thada built in 1899. Jaswant Thada is royal cenotaph of Jaswant Singh. It is complex of elegant while marble temples. At the entrance of cenotaphs near parking lot, there is a small raised platform from where you can get glorious aerial view of city and panoramic view of Mehrangarh Fort. This is a must visit platform if you want to see fort from bird eye point of view.
Once we drove down to the city, we went to main bazaars for art, handicrafts, and Jodhpuri Jutis shopping. We also enjoyed Jodhpur’s popular Mirchi wadas and Makhania lassis near Sajoti Gate.
In late afternoon, as we were driving out of city from southern end, we stopped at one more princely architecture of Jodhpur - Elegant Umaid Bhavan Palace built in 1929 by Maharaja Umaid Singh during British Raj. This palace took 12 years to finish and it was meant to be a relief project to create employment for famine-stricken citizens. Currently this sandstone palace is partly converted into hotel, partly converted into museum, and partly occupied by maharaja descendents. We visited Umaid Bhawan Museum to see maharaja’s collection – weapons, glassware, kitchenware, crystals, antique clocks, model planes, and stuffed hunted animals before head out of the city.
Excursions
(#) Bishnoi Safari - Inhabited by the Bishnois in outskirts of Jodhpur showcasing local handicrafts
(#) Mandore (9 km) - former capital of Marwar, Royal cenotaphs of Jodhpur’s rulers from 15-19th century
(#) Balsamand Lake (5 km) - Artificial Lake with 19th century red sandstone water palace
(#) Kaylana Lake (11km) – 84 square km artificial lake constructed in 1872, popular picnic spot
(#) Osiyan (60km) - Exquisite 8th-12th century Jain and Hindu temples
