Quintessential Rajasthan. Review on Jodhpur

Jodhpur, the name inspires images of erstwhile regal Rajasthan, of the valiant warriors. Err, of course also of the regal opulence in the current times. But, all in all, essential Rajasthan and thus definitely worth a visit.The city is tucked away in the central-western part of the desert state and is hub town for visits to Jaisalmer, Bikaner, Nagaur and Barmer.We landed up in Jodhpur in the afternoon, after a bit of a delay in departure from Mumbai. Jet Airways finally put in a 737 instead of the ATR-72, and thus we managed to reach almost on time as scheduled. As one comes in Jodhpur, one sees a desertish landscape, arid, some amount of brush, dried river beds and small patches of water in some places.We were picked up by pre-arranged tour operators, taken to a pre-arranged hotel; here onwards let me categorize the parts of the review (not in any particular order):

Approach and departure

As you land in Jodhpur, you notice the fact that this is a large air force base. The runway is camouflage painted. There are concrete hangars with the opening shielded all over. There are enough number of surface to air protection mechanisms spread around. On a nearby hill is a large communications set up, radar etc. But also the view is tremendous as you are greeted by a view of the fort as well as the palace. The terminal building is nice looking as well.For aviation enthusiasts, you will be able to see MiG 23Bs all around, some Mi helicopters. You might get so see some of the strike aircraft operating as well.While getting out of Jodhpur, during the security check one of the cops (CISF) was drunk, and assured me that carrying batteries was okay. And there was this strange looking Brit of Indian origin did and 'oops, forgot to declare that' for a pen knife, but she was allowed to carry it on board.

Accommodation

Enough acco available in Jodhpur and you will find rooms. Most travel agents seem to give up and still do not have every hotel there on their list. Hunt around a bit on your own and you will get through. Check the web for deals...we stayed at the Best Western Ranbanka Palace and did the bookings on the BW website. A few other nice places to stay are Ajit Bhawan, Sardar Samand Palace, Taj Hari Mahal and of course the Ummaid Bhawan Palace. The last is usually pretty pricey but once in a while, they come up with 2n/3d package deals which are not expensive at all. There are a few pseudo hotel chain hotels as well...for Days Inn and Quality Inn. Stay away from them. Also stay away from the Welcomgroup Bal Samand Palace, because the rooms are like caves, far away from the actual palace, and dark. You don’t get to stay at the palace at all, but the rooms look more like converted stables.

Food

Regular fare:This is where Bal Samand scores. Their garden restaurant has pretty nice food, some Rajasthani stuff as well.Ajit Bhawan has an adjoining place called on the Rocks. Well, we didn't go there, but the place, I think does rock. There was quite a crowd of cars outside the place on Saturday evening.Ranbanka has a garden restaurant as well, but that is like whatever...the food is not great, and I think its a bit overpriced as well.

The Pillars bar at Ummaid Bhawan Palace is tremendously located for a sundowner, as you watch it happen across the horizon. The ambience is terrific and you feel pampered. Sitting in the palace or just outside it, its nice, romantic (even if I say so), with the lit up palace, flame torches, liveried and tremendously attentive waiters, you do feel like a Maharajah. As you walk into the palace compound every one talks to you with a bow, and hands folded. Even the gatekeeper at the main gate asks you with hands folded. As you walk into the palace, there is bowing galore...almost embarrassing. Pretty determined to stay there the next time I travel through Jodhpur onwards to Jaisalmer. Oh, BTW, very good kebabs and overpriced drinks. We sat there had like three drinks and a serving of kebabs and that cost us a bit more than 1K. But what the heck. The service makes you want to pay.

Local Food:

Laddoos: any large sweets shop

Makhaniya Lassi: There is this shop near the Clock tower, called Mishri Lal. He is the most famous.

Kachori, mawa Kachori: try Pokar sweets on the beginning of Nai Sarak. Pretty good.

Dal bati Chorma: This is slightly away from the main touristy areas, at a place called Bhawani's. This is a barely functional place and if you are a tremendous hygiene freak, well this place will freak you out. Because the bati is broken by hand by the waiter, though he does wash his hands often (I saw it). Ghee can be served 20ml, or 50ml. Additional onions and lime will cost you extra. You can finish off with a chorma laddoo which is actually made in ghee, has a few raisins and a few cashew nuts too. Two of us ate our fill and paid a princely sum of Rs 55. Takers, anyone?

PeopleVery polite people in Rajasthan. But very tourist conscious. Jodhpur is a touristy town after all.

Sights

Usual Mainly just three. The fort, Jaswant Thada, and the palace.The Fort is an old one, but quite magnificent and plush. Now it is maintained by the Mehrangarh trust which makes a lot of money, but I guess also spends quite a bit on upkeep. This perhaps was the first place I have seen in our country where a place is designed like in the US. All conveniences (including elevators) are provided and everything (elevator ride) is charged. There is a charge for cameras too. And as you conclude the tour, you have to pass through the museum shop. The fort is worth a visit during the day (try getting there before noon) and also in the night, because they light the place up.Nearby is Jaswant Thada, which is essentially a bunch of cenotaphs, nothing really to write home about but great views of the city, the fort and the palace.Have already written about the palace above, and you must visit it...for a show of opulence if not anything else. Evidently was built in the 1920s as a drought relief measure to provide employment to people. But then, that type of construction is used to build something for the people and not the palace for heaven's sake.

Others if you are up to it, take a 65km ride to Osiyan which has a temple. The ride is nice and you get to see glimpses of rural Rajasthan, plenty camels and some peacocks too.Visit Mandore for some more cenotaphs. and go over to the Bal Samand Palace and take a look at the man made lake. Nice.

Shopping

Try not to go where your taxi driver suggests, because you will end up paying way more because you are also paying for the driver's commission.To buy Rajasthani footwear, get to the clock tower and ask your way to the Mochion Wali Gali. We bought five pairs for a Rs 850.To buy tie-dye, or leharia, wander into the galis behind the clock tower after having crossed the vegetable market and drop into any of the shops there.There are other pretty large emporia for jewelry, antiques etc which you can choose to visit.So, if you are going to Rajasthan, you must have Jodhpur on your itinerary and you can cover all that is worth in full two days. Do go there.