The speaking stones of Vijayanagara. Review on Hampi

The speaking stones of Vijayanagara tell us real stories of the Greatness and the Grandeur of Vijayanagara Kings and their unflinching efforts to develop architecture Culture and Tradition in India.The ravishing stones also tell us stories on what Destruction and War can cause to Mankind leaving behind several lakh people dead and ruining the great preserves of our Culture.

A weekend Sojourn to Hampi.

400 kms from Hyderabad and perhaps the same Distance from Bangalore, Hampi is an ideal place to spend the weekend Holiday and to understand our History and take a glimpse of those beautiful edifices spread over 26 sq kms of land in the form of half ruins yet basking under the light of Sunset amidst Cultivated lands and the serene background of the River Tungabadhra. Each one of these Monuments are a splendour in themselves and no words are enough to describe them. Simply put your imagination into full throttle and you can see wealth and Pomp which could have been on sight five hundred years ago and you can see the Festivities and the devotion of the Kings of Vijayanagara towards Gods of both cult-Vishnu and Siva.

Attractions in Hampi-Monumental

(My narration of each Monument will be in an order to suit Travel in comfortable and continuous fashion because they are all spread across 26 kms and to miss any one of them will be to miss a part of Archaeology of our Country. I recommend having a quality Guide to understand the nuances of each structure.)Please log on to https://flickr.com/photos/sndaya/sets/72157594152958772/ to see my map as well as Pictures to understand Hampi in true colours. Ideal ways of exploring-Bicycle-Two wheeler-Four wheeler-all are available for rent.

SEGMENT 1; To the left

Virupaksha Temple-Epicentre of Vijayanagara : Built and developed over 700 years with culmination of Ranga Mantapa by Krishnadevaraya , this Temple reminds you of typical south Indian architecture with the Sanctum of Virupaksha at the Centre and surrounded by other Sanctums and Courtyards and gateways to the four sides. The Temple view with its tall Gopuram is beautiful from the Hilltop of Hemkunta. Maintenance and cleanliness is lot more to be desired.You can then move to the east of Virupaksha temple few kilometers to reach Virupaksha Bazaar

Achyutaraya Temple-Under ruins Moving further down from the Bazaar leads to the rocky Achtutaraya Temple said to be built by Tirumaladevi in memory of King Atchyutaraya. Half broken Gopuram welcomes you into the temple with pillared kalyana mantapas and inner temple. You can also see Garuda here.

Kodandarama Temple-Magnificent Idols.

Cutting across the Soolai Bazaar onto the hill leads to the Hillock across the Tungabadra lies the Beautiful temple of Kodandarama. The idols of Lord Rama with Sita and Lakshmana are simply magnificient-six meters tall and gracing us. You have idols of Sudarshana and Anjaneya as well. Touching underneath is the flowing Tungabadra which comes into the Garbagraha during spate it seems.

Matanga Hill-Aerial view of Hampi

If you like Mountaineering, Matanga Hill is the place to visit. Historically known for the fight between Vali and Sugriva, your efforts to climb will fetch you with beautiful landscape sight of Vijayanagara ruins alongside the lush green fields and the blue Tungabadra-a sight to behold.

Crossing the hillock from Atchyutaraya temple leads to a Tea stall and Vehicle parking place. Going few steps down to the left leads to Purandaradasa Mantapa and to the right is the marvelous Vittala Temple and King’s Balance.

Purandaradasa Mantap-on the banks of TungabhadraTouching the Mantap is the flowing Tungabadhra on stones at knee height, quite well placed for bathing and swimming notwithstanding the Pollution and skid turf.The Sugriva Cave is very near from this side as well towards the right which is popularly known as Kishkinta in Ramayana the abode of Apes.

King's Balance-Lost Balance

Also called Tulu Purushadana, a place where Kings weighed themselves against Gold and Grains to distribute to poor men during important occasions. It is a 15 feet High Pillar with beams and rings on either side made of Granite

Vittala Temple-Musical and Magical.

Just across to the front lies the majestic Vittala Temple, culmination of the Stupendous Architecture of King Krishnadevaraya is the essence of Hampi. If the stones of Hampi tell us stories, each of the Pillars of the Main Mantapa play music to our ears. The outstanding Engineering has gone into these pillars which when gently taped give musical sounds across the other side. Each pillar has beautiful carvings. In front of the Mantap is the famous Stone Chariot which is believed to be made exactly similar to Krishnadevarya’s Chariot. It has exquisite carvings on the wheels and has the top flipped off due to destruction, although not as Magnificent as the chariot in Konark Temple.To the front and to the East are the half broken pillars for nearly 200 mts perhaps a Bazaar in those times.

SEGMENT 2: TO THE RIGHT

Sashivakalu Ganesha Temple- Massive and Majestic Also known as Mustard Ganesha, a single stone Structure with an open Mantapa in sitting posture at a height of 5 metres.

Krishna Temple-Big and isolated To the right is Krishna Temple, quite isolated with a big inner mantapa with lovely outer corridor. The stone carvings are worth a glimpse. Opposite to it is a Bazaar with ruins and nice Public Bath filled with Rain water sloping down the Hill. Going down the road further leads to Chandrakeshwara Temple.Take the inner road leaving your vehicle back, you will find-Ugra Narasimha & Badavi Linga-Two wonderful Idols

Standing 6.7 metres Tall lies the terrifying Idol of Narasimha built by Krishnadevaraya in 1528 AD. Goddess Laxmi is missing on the lap. Curled by the Adishesha with lion Mask, this single stone structure does not have any protection against nature already ravished by the Muslim Kings.To the right stands the beautiful Badavi Linga with water beneath and Sunlight falling from top as the canal seems to flow through it.

Small replicas of these are sold as you come out to the main Road.

Prasanna Virupaksha Temple

Moving further down the road leads to this temple in half ruins below the ground level. As you enter the broken Gopura, you can see axial Mantapas cut across on either side in typical Vijayanagara style.

Mahanavami Diba-On top of the world On the same road to the left, take the side road and get into the main enclosure called as Royal enclosure, you will see the Mahanamvami Diba, a huge platform built by krishnadeva Raya. The major festival of Navarathri is celebrated with much fanfare here.

On top, you have couple of other dwaras (ways) to go inside. (My MS photo with my kid is on top of this Dibba) It is believed that thousands of people assembled in front of this Dibba.

Stepped Tank-Stupendous work of art

To the left of the Dibba is the wonderful masterpiece measuring 73X27 and found recently. Made of chlorite, it is a photographer’s delight which incidentally fetched me a Poster for wall hanging. Each step is intricate and orderly going down to around 7 metres.

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