The forgotton empire. Review on Hampi

If one wishes to be reborn in a different era , HAMPI  would be  the right place with an eye popping shopping of diamonds on the open streets, remember the best diamonds were mined in India during vijaynagar era.

Skillfully sculpted temples and palaces, well planned market place, roads and sanitation.  Hampi is currently declared as a world heritage site (1984), which is fabulous even amidst the ruins,  due to carnage unleashed by the Sultans of Bijapur.

*The history of  Hampi during the Vijayanagar empire spans from 1335 upto 1365 for more than 230 years.  Krishnadevaraya from the Tuluva dynasty reigned from 1509 upto 1529,  during which time vijaynagar witnessed entered the golden era.

Krishna Temple : The Krishna temple was built by Krishnadevaraya., it is one of the most beautiful monuments located close to Virupaksha temple.  The gopuram is vandalized to a large extent.by the Sultans robbing its deities and ornaments.

The entire royal family members were massacred in this temple.  Blood flowed in the temple premise, women and children were set on fire.  The burn marks are visible inside the temple.  Luckily after looting the enemy soldiers diverted their attention to grab wealth from many other temples, and spared mass scale demolition. Free entry

Hazaar Rama Temple : One gets to witness the epic of Ramayana depicted on the façade of the temple.  The outer boundary walls is filled with battle scenes displaying the royal army in its full splendour.  The pillars inside the temple are beautifully finished.  The temple has not suffered much of the destruction unleashed by the Sultans.  Free entry

Mahanavami Dibba : This place had been the public parade ground for the Dusherra festivity.  The Kings had a beautiful stage on the Mahanavami Dibba to witness the procession and various acts enacted during the 10 days festivity, which replicated in the form of Hampi Utsav during Nov every year.  During the ancient times puppet show, dance, drama, fireworks and fancy dress competition were enacted to enthrall the Royalty and commoners alike.

Many of the monuments are demolished in this area.  An underground meeting place for the king and the commanders is also built.  Water duct is one the architectural wonder seen leading to the stepped tank.  An amphitheatre seems to be destroyed too. Free entry

Vittala Temple :  Stone Chariots and musical pillars are the prime example of the perfection of the artisans during the Vijaynagar era.  Many a films were shot in this premise in vernacular language as well as Bollywood.  The famous Myth movie of Jackie chaan too has been shot over here.  Unfortunately the musical pillar temple has collapsed and nobody is allowed inside this premise.  The ASI is planning to resurrect this temple, which is a mammoth task.

Lotus Mahal : Lotus Mahal is supposed to be queen’s palace during the summer.  The entire momument is beautifully ventilated with privacy for the the women folk.  This Mahal is having a Sacrcenic influence.  The royal palace is demolished in front of the Lotus Mahal.  This place needs tickets for visiting, which can be combined ticket with Vittala temple.  Photography charges are separate. Entry ticket

Elephant Stable :The royal herd of elephants were stationed in the elephant stables.  It is a majestic structure which still survives in pristine condition. Jain Temple’s Behind the Lotus Mahal enclosure one finds small jain temple signifying that Jains too had influence in Hampi.

Sasvekallu and Doddakalu Ganesh :   The lord of knowledge Ganesh is adorning these temple, a portion of his stomach has been destroyed by soldiers of Sultan. The destruction seems to have halted in the midst for reasons unknown.  The DODDAKALU ganesh temple has a greek parthenon type pillar and citadel in a miniature format

Urga Narashima and Badavi Linga :  Urga Narashima has been the symbol of Hoysalas and Vijaynagar empire.  One can see a partially destroyed statue of Urga Narashima ( Lion headed Diety ) enroute to Hazaar Rama temple.  The Shiva Linga seems to have built by a poor lady in honour of the King.  This place is always immersed with water.  Some people try to throw coin to perch on the linga for good luck and wishes to come true.

Underground Shiva Temple :  A marvelous archicteture with water channels routed to the temple, to keep the place cool.  This temple is immersed with water, without a clue by the present archeologist, whether it was a faulty construction or breach of water channel.  The entrance to the temple is beautifully landscaped.** Free Entry

Zenana :**   The bathing place for the queens of the sultans has been beautifully constructed near the Underground shiva temple.  It is now a lovers den to have privacy.  There is no water standing in this place, which is surprising.

Anegundi :   This place was the first capital of the Vijaynagar empire and later transformed Hampi into theirprimal capital.

T.B. River :  Coracle ride is taken across to reach Anegondi by tourist, to explore the monuments and hilltop.  One can see a temple Malliarjun being under resurrection.

Muesuem :  Kamalapur has a beautiful museum of the left over monuments which have been destroyed by the Sultans.  These monuments are only partially recovered majority of them seems to have been smuggled to Europe by the britishers. Entry ticket

Bear Park :Doraji  Bear sanctuary is supposed to be 14 km away from Kamalapur.  Honestly I was not interested in visiting this place for spending more time @ Hampi.  Some foreigners stay months undertaking research or trying to feel the rustic atmosphere of Hampi.

T.B. Dam and Musical fountains :  A beautiful dam is built across the river tungabhadra to harness the energy unleashed by the river.  The dam has a beautiful garden and musical fountainal  is played during the night which is better than Brindavan garden. Entry ticket for the gardens is charged.

Old Bridge :  An old bridge across the T B river which was supposed to be replicated has been stopped by the World Heritage committee.  The latest news is that bridge has collapsed.   if one wants to witness and get the feel one can notice the same enroute to Jaggan chakki falls in the Shivsamudram route. *

Tips to travellers : Guides are available at the Virupaksha premises.  The charges range from Rs 150 to Rs 500/- per family.  On guided KSTDC tour the charges are Rs 100/- per head for entire trip of 3 days.  There are auto guides who will complete the trip within 2 hours.  Just park your vehicle and get going.  The temperature is extremely hot and humid.  Accomodation is available at Hospet.  Route maps are sold by vendors.  Shanbaug Towers and Mallika Lodge are recommended for stay at Hospet.  Mayura KSTDC luxury lodging is available at Kamalpura which is close to the heritage site

Disclaimer : Bygones are bygones don t carry hatred, but ponder over the love with which monuments have been created.  Even amidst ruins they reveal more about the rulers of the time.  Skills of the artisans were perfection personified.  Indian women should admire the place for the diamonds, the worlds best and women's best friend.**<