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4.32 

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One For The Road
Mar 28, 2004 03:14 PM 3662 Views
(Updated Mar 28, 2004 03:17 PM)

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Half the pleasures of a trip to Darjeeling lie outside the city limits?on the roads, to be more specific. After five days of unadulterated bliss at Darjeeling, when we hit the road to Gangtok, we had no inkling about the fabulous attractions that lay ahead.


The enthusiastic driver in his resplendent red shirt came to pick us up from the hotel much before the appointed time. The bright white Maruti Omni offered more than adequate space for our family of three.


As Darjeeling receded from our sight, we found ourselves surrounded by all shades of green emanating from majestic landscapes on every side. Soon the view of a river enthralled us. The river did not part company with us and ran at different levels from our vehicle, now in its majestic form very close to the road, and later far below, like an ordinary stream. River Teesta engaged us in this game of hide and seek for quite sometime, until our vehicle stopped at a place, where other similar tourist vehicles had parked.


?Go and enjoy the scenery,? bade our driver, and directed us to the small height beside the road. We were astounded at the divine view of the river flowing down the valley far below?nature in its pure and primeval form. How different is this from human nature, I was pondering, when I got a peep into the devious and calculating side of man. The drivers of the parked vehicles meanwhile had struck a deal amongst themselves?drivers from Darjeeling would return home with the passengers of the vehicles coming from Gangtok and tourists like us will shift to the Gangtok vehicles. Three cheers for the cunning ways of man!


We did not regret the swap. Our new driver Suraj Gurung (Phone:03592-232747), turned out to be far more polished, cool headed and resourceful. We would later engage him for our local sight seeing tour in Gangtok.


The highway around the rolling foothills is very well maintained and you are reminded at regular intervals that Boarder Roads Organisation is in charge. If the alpine trees and grand Himalayan heights constantly reminding about the smallness of man do not make you philosophical, the messages displayed by BRO will. These road signs brood on subjects like life and death, the virtues of alertness, patriotism and the fruits of perseverance and so on. We found it just the right kind of setting to partake of the soulful numbers from the Vishwa Mohan Bhatt album ?Music for the Soul?, which we had purchased at Darjeeling.


Small markets along the highway bring about the only changes in the fabulous scenery. Stop for a cola, or some momos if you like, or to make an STD call back home. One such place on the way is Teesta Bazar. The river affords the best view here?the off white water streaming down rapidly, looking fierce yet inviting. This is the centre where white water rafting facilities are available. Stop here if you yearn for adventure.


After the Teesta bridge one finally parts company with the beautiful river, and haeds for Sikkim. The border gate with Chinese style lofty arches, announce that you are about to enter the new state. Foreigners have to present their documents to get an entry. The landscape in Sikkim is slightly different from what we left behind. The swanky campus of Sikkim Manipal engineering college affords very good view from a distance. Rangpo is a small town looking gracious with its brightly painted modern houses. Few military bases fall on the way, wearing smart looks in the fabulous natural setting.


We overtake a lonely school boy in his uniform walking in the forlorn road, with no school or hamlet in sight. Where has he come from and where is he heading for? Sikkim?s roads are empty, so are the fields and foothills. Hey you city folks struggling for your own space out there, the charming isolation of Sikkim will overwhelm you.


As you negotiate these vistas of solitude you suddenly find yourself at the outskirts of Gangtok. Vehicles blowing horns, busy commuters speeding on their bikes, hoardings bragging about their products break your reverie and prepare you for your sojourn in that enchanting city. Gangtok has its own story to tell, but this one is for the road.


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