May 26, 2001 12:00 PM
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A Scottish friend who makes annual pilgrimages to Malaysia, describes Fraser's Hill, '' as a right nice wee place just like home''. It must have seemed that way too for the Scot Louis James Fraser, who towards the end of the last century emerged from the lowlands to find himself a cool hideout in the spot that now bears his name. This solitary adventurer built himself a shack and traded in tin ore utilising a primitive mule train. In 1910 he simply disappeared never to be found! Fraser's Hill, however, was put on the map by a Bishop Ferguson Davie, the then Bishop of Singapore, who suggested the place be developed as a cool hill resort and retreat for heat stricken British colonial officials and their wives.
Today, Fraser's Hill, - some 101 km north of Malaysia's biggest city Kuala Lumpur flourishes as a charming mountain hideaway and a favoured retreat for golf enthusiasts, nature lovers and corporate visitors. It's a good place too for newly-weds to romance in the hills! To get there from Kuala Lumpur, you have to head north to Kuala Kubu Baru for about an hour's drive before arriving at the Gap. You then face a twisting, scenic, 7 km climb up a narrow, one-way road to the resort. Be warned though that the road is open for just 40 minutes to ascending traffic at odd hours and descending traffic at even hours. For starters, this lush, verdant, enclave is a welcome respite from the lowland humidity and heat. It's a breath of coolness just right for reviving those flagging spirits. The climate here is mild, refreshing and cool at 15 - 20°. It is a nice scenic haven for those yearning for a leisurely, relaxing, break from the big cities and just like Rome, it sits on seven hills. However, unlike Rome, it has no claims to cosmopolitan fame, instead, it has a quiet, rustic, charm about it and an easy paced, laid back, way of life. Attractions at Fraser's Hill include a first rate public golf course, which was built in1921- a round or two here some 1,500 m above sea level can be a very invigorating experience. The course is an oasis of tranquility set in a cool sheltered valley against a very colourful back cloth of luxuriant vegetation.
This is one of Malaysia's few public courses and the course is short and tricky, following the contours of the narrow valley. Caddy and green fees are moderate and golf sets are available for hire. Since 1996 there has been a second course for golfers : the 18-hole par 70 D'Club course, which was designed by world renowned golfer Rodger Davis.There is also a multi-purpose games complex, run by the Fraser's Hill Development Corporation; here you can engage in a game of tennis, badminton or squash. They also have mountain bikes for hire. The energetic visitor can trek down to the picturesque Jeriau waterfall about 5 km from the town center. Here, the cascading waters end in a natural swimming pool. It is a favourite haunt of picnickers who sit and admire the view as the water shimmers with the sunlight filtering through bamboo bushes and lush ferns. Near the falls there is a Hydroponic Rock Melon Farm, a Mushroom Farm and a citrus orchard. If you want to be a modern day Robin Hood or William Tell head for the Archery Centre and try your hand with the bow. Not far away from the FHDC office is Malaysian's very first highland nature education centre which was opened in June 1997 in order to function as a resource and promotion operation for eco-tourism. It's a joint venture between FHDC and World Wide Fund for Nature( WWF ) Malaysia ans it's main aim is to help raise the public awareness of highland forests, a major part of Malaysia's rich heritage. The WWF mount a small exhibition on nature at the centre, they also provide slide shows and leaflets to interested visitors.
Nature lovers appreciate Fraser's Hill, with good reason. There are opportunities for lengthy hikes along jungle tracks and the observant may spot unusual flora, exotic butterflies and colorful birds. Some paths lead to hill peaks where one can get fine panoramic views of the mountain ranges. The place is a refuge to over 250 species of Malaysian birds. Due to its location on the cross migratory paths of certain bird species, spots like Fraser's Hill have emerged as a bird watching haven and a bird sanctuary is housed here. The hill resort also hosts a bird watching contest every year and this event attracts overseas nature lovers as well as Malaysians. It is also not difficult to stumble across families of gibbons swinging among the trees. There are actually seven popular jungle trails, viz, the Rompin, Bishop, Kindersley, Maxwell, Abu Suraidi, Hemmant and Mager; all pass through lush greenery and are marked. Most of the trails would take about three hours to complete, if a leisurely stroll to view all the varied flora and fauna is embarked upon. '' Hard '' adventurers will probably want to opt for the pine trees hill trail : this requires around four hours of tough climbing to get to the peak. Alternatively you can opt to do nothing except to enjoy the scenic montane rainforests or explore it by mountain bicycle.
Fraser's Hill also has a flower nursery replete with gorgeous dahlias, roses, daises, geraniums and chrysanthemums and a vegetable farm where the visitor can buy plants and temperate vegetables. The paddock at Jalan Valley has some ponies which visitors, novices or experts, can hire to ride and there is a beautiful landscaped mini zoo and park. The lake provides opportunities for boating and a restful hour or two's fishing. It's also an ideal spot for on early morning jog! There is no shortage of places to eat. You can take your pick from tasty local food at stalls such as Satay's Corner and Warung Hamzah Mat Yusuf both near the mosque, Chinese and Western dishes at budget prices at the Puncak Inn and sophisticated Western cuisine at the Quest Resort and Ye Olde Smoke House. At the bungalows such as the Brinchang, Jelai, Jerantut, Raub and Termeloh, the caretakers are able to prepare Malay, Chinese and Western dishes, at moderate prices for their guests. You can also pamper your palate on Chinese and Western food at the Jelai Resort and the Silverpark Holiday Resort or head to the Spices pub for a cool drink. Fraser's Hill is self contained with a hotel, olde world bungalows, post office, shops, medical dispensary, pub and a laundry.
A trip to this verdant hill resort is an experience, and you will discover why Louis Fraser chose this spot for his sanctuary and why thousands of city folks and tourists since have found tranquility here some 1524 metres above sea level!
