Apr 18, 2006 10:03 PM
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(Updated Apr 18, 2006 10:04 PM)
Maharashtra conjures up different images ; for some it is the pious feelings of Sant Tukaram and Pandharpur, the others are inspired and charged by Tilak and the revel in Ganesh festivals etc, for others it is Alphonso mangoes and Nagpur oranges. The navwari sari and the lavani... all of it epitomises the vibrant Maharashtrian culture. A culture that is so vibrant will be difficult to touch, feel and taste at one go. This is common to many or nearly all states of India. Therefore the cuisine is the easiest way to reach out to the land and experience their joys.
I grew up in Pune and have spent 25 waking and sleeping years of my life in this city. South indian by origin, but 'Jai Maharashtra' charge me more than any Shiv Sainik :). I, being a part of this social fabric, finally found a way to experience Maharashtra, I found it at Durvankar.
This place has been around for a very long time and is run by a family that runs Mankar Caterers (I am told but cannot vouch for it). It was a chance discovery by my parents and they were keen to share this with us the next time we went back to Pune.
The mechanics of this place works is very simple - there is a fixed rate for the unlimited thali and the menu is written by hand on notebook sheets and pasted on a wall near the lift. The rates have been hiked from April 2006 by 5 rupees. Thali on regular weekdays will cost INR 65 and if you have to parcel it then it is INR 75. On Sunday the thali costs INR 90 and if you want to parcel the same, it will be INR 100. The regular weekday menu has 3 sabzi's, unlimited puri / chapati, rice, plain dal and rice (called waranbhath in Marathi) and 1 sweet. On Sunday the difference is 2 sweets and masalabhath I think. I forget what it is while I share this with you folks. A common plate on the table will sport chutney, koshimbhir, lasana chi chutney (dry garlic chutney), fried green chillies (Slurp!), cut pieces of lemon etc.
The eating place is on the second floor. I will not call it a restaurant because it is not
one in the traditional sense. It is a place which has many chairs and tables neatly arranged to facilitate as many people who can enjoy the traditional Maharashtrian fare. So if you want a romantic dinner for two or a place where you will pampered, well buddy you have come to the wrong place :) This is jet set place middle class place. Here solitaires and glitterati dont matter. Here it is important to treat every entrant as a guest and feed them well.
We went on Sunday April 16, 06 at about 8:30 p.m. and were lucky to get a place for 4 adults and one child. If the crowd swells, the usher who is actually next generation of the family run business, will keep a notebook and call in people as soon as a table is ready. Immediately the staff springs into action and places fresh plates etc and starts serving the food. They are trained to smell as soon as a roti / puri is over and they will swoop on you for the next. Since it is unlimited they will keep checking on what you like. In fact I noticed that if you are polishing off something quickly, because you liked, you will be treated more of that :) The order is puri/chapati, then masala bhath, then waran bhath. Since it is summer one of the sweets was Aam Ras (mango juice). I cannot comment on each food item because it is getting into details of something that changes everyday. You can savor Bhakri on a week day.
The staff is nice and treat very warmly, like a family member. They check your preferences for ghee, coconut topping etc and dont trust it on you just because it has to. You can therefore have your variations too...
After you have stuffed yourself, the bill is produced immediately but they do not stand on your head to clear it. One needs to be mature to realise the crowd and clear the same quickly. The best is that they have a common tip box in which you can place your tips. I thought it was a cool idea.
Durvankar to me is a reflection of Maharashtra - vibrant, accommodative, large heart, treats you like family, is open to feedback and always has a positive attitude.At Durvankar it is not just eating, it is experience the art and science of Maharashtrian hospitality.. Try it to believe it and you will know why I am so smitten by them...
