A hidden jewel in the Caribbean. Review on Dominica

General description

Imagine mountains painted a lush tropical green, crystal clear rivers and shimmering blue-green seas. Imagine fresh juice in dozens of varieties, the fruit picked when ripe. Imagine diving and hiking to views rarely surpassed, including the world's second largest boiling lake, countless waterfalls, and old sugar mills. Add friendly, intelligent people who will extend a warm welcome to travellers and you have Dominica.

The island has something to offer just about everyone, but is especially attractive for travellers who enjoy hiking or diving. A rich seasonal calandar of cultural events is also on offer, including the International Creole Music Festival (end of October); Carnival (February); and village feasts throughout the year.

I have been to Dominica four times, including a twelve month stay and have grown to love the country, the food, the climate and the people. Dominica is primarily a tropical rainforest, and as such receives a lot of rain. Often the rain falls in quick bursts while the sun is still shining in a blue sky. Known locally as ''liquid sunshine'' this is in fact a very pleasant rain and shouldn't dampen plans. However, there is a dry season -- late February to early June. Getting there is a bit tricky, you will need to take a ''hop'' from an island with an international airport. You can stay in a guest house or a nice hotel according to your budget and tastes, but all I have been to are clean and safe.

Language and Culture

People in Dominica speak English and Kweyol, a French-based Creole. You can purchase a Kweyol-English dictionary (large, or a small version for visitors) at Frontline Bookstores in Roseau, Dominica's capital. A common greeting is ''Sa ka fet?'' which translates, roughly, as ''What's happening?'' Standard responses are: ''Mwen la'' (I'm there) or ''Alright'' or ''I cool.''

Greeting people as you pass them on the road is considered a mark of good manners, while failing to acknowledge a greeting is considered a mark of poor upbringing. Of course, there are a few people whom you should ignore, but generally it is considered a big offence to ignore others.

Currency

The currency for Dominica is Eastern Caribbean dollars, fixed at 2.67 to USD$1. US dollars are widely accepted at the same rate as the bank, but not all vendors are able to give change is US currency. I always bring EC$, but this is my preference and is not necessary.

Credit cards can be a problem, many places simply don't accept credit cards, although most major hotels do.

There are several banks in Roseau, Dominica's capital, that have Interac and full counter service. These include the Royal Bank of Canada, ScotiaBank (also Canadian) Barclays (British) and a French bank. Outside of the capital you will have trouble finding any banks, there is one in Portsmouth (northwest coast, second major city).

Tour guides, official and unofficial

Tourism is still a relatively new venture for Dominicans, and there are a few things travellers should know.

Official taxi drivers and tour guides have photo id that identifies them as such. These guides have been trained and should charge fixed rates. There are also lots of unofficial guides, some of whom are excellent. You should make sure to agree on a price before you take the trip and check what is included.

For example, Dominica has the world's second largest boiling lake. This is a popular tour and one that requires a guide. It would be absolute folly to attempt this arduous hike without a guide. Make sure to bring a lunch and don't try this hike if you are not in very good shape. It takes six or more hours and is very, very difficult.

Other tours may not require a guide, but it is always better to employ one. You will not be harrassed by others and you will be helping a country with extreme economic problems since changes in banana exports have left many people cash-poor.

Food

Do not expect McDonalds! There is a KFC, a couple of Chinese restaurants, and a few pizza places -- again all in the capital. North American food can also be found near Portsmouth by the medical school and at some of the hotels. Generally, though, the food is Dominican style. Seafood is all good. The fruit and vegetables are the best I've ever had, as they are always picked ripe and served fresh.

For more information

Great photos and information about where to stay, tours and the history of the island are available at delphis.com