Culture-rich cool getaway. Review on Coorg

Coorg had been on our minds for quite some time. With many people visiting it and telling us their tales, our interest only increased manifold. Also, we were looking forward to the fun of driving around 250 kilometres from Bangalore and back.

We had two options for routes -- take the popular Mysore Road upto Srirangapatna and take a deviation towards Madikeri or hit the lesser used Kanakapura Road and go through Mysore. We chose the former since we might save on the distance and also the road would be better. Currently, four-laning work is happening on the Bangalore-Mysore Road; so, we had to be slower than expected and careful. However, in the future, this half of the journey should be a pleasure. From Srirangapatna onwards, the road is not that good. You can go through Hunsur and Periyapatna to hit Kushalnagar, which itself is in Coorg.

Coorg is actually a district in Karnataka that borders Kerala. Madikeri (or Mercara) is the district headquarters while there are other places like Kushalnagar, Siddapur, Kakkabe, Dubare, Kabini and Nagarhole.

Kodavas are the natives of this region, with a unique culture sprinkled with influences from both provinces. Other features are high literacy, fetish for booze and meat (especially pork), interest in sports and participation in the army. Even now, you can spot men and women hanging around in their traditional clothes. The cuisine is distinct and is not to be missed.

Around Kushalnagar:

• The Tibetan settlement in Bylakuppe is very famous. It's like a different country within our country. Check out the Namdroling monastery; you'd be transported to the Far East magically. Tibetan goods are available at Camp 1.

  
  




• Nisargadhama is on a small island formed by the Cauvery river. It's a good place to be in touch with nature for a few hours. You could even stay in one of the cottages there. Elephant and boat rides are available.

  
  




• Harangi Dam is worth visiting if you are bored of seeing a made-up one like Krishna Raja Sagar (Brindavan Gardens).

  
  




• Dubare Elephant Camp [*] is another place to stay and enjoy nature. Jungle Lodges provides accommodation here.

  
  




• Veerabhoomi Tourist Village [*] is a hotel with a rural setup and a historical theme.

  
  

In and around Madikeri:

• Abbi Falls is a little more than a run-of-the-mill waterfall. The name itself means 'waterfalls' in Kodava language.

  
  




• Raja's Seat, as the name suggests is the view-point used by the erstwhile kings. On a clear day, the view can be brilliant.

  
  




• Omkareshwara temple gives you a peek into the architecture of the 'Coorgis'.

  
  




• When you go towards Galibeedu, you can spot a seemingly unused golf course. Don't imagine lush green now; it's more of dry green. It's interesting to roam in a large area like this with no soul in sight.

  
  

In and around Talacauvery:

• This is the birthplace of the river in contention between Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. It's surprising to know that the river springs inside a small tank, disappears under the rocks for a few kilometres and resurfaces near Bhagamandala. There is a small temple here where you can offer prayers to the goddess.

  
  




• Going through the temple, you can climb up a peak that is part of the Brahmagiri hills. You have to do this barefoot even if the sun is belting down. You get a majestic view from here, which in the best times is supposed to show Kerala and the Arabian Sea.

  
  




• Bhagamandala actually is a confluence of Cauvery with two other rivers, Kannike and the invisible Sujyothi.

  
  

Siddapur [] is known mostly for the famous Orange Country Resort, which offers 5-star accommodation. Nagarhole [] (about 100 kilometres from Madikeri) houses a famous wildlife sanctuary known for its safari tour. The weird timings prevented us from making a visit. Staying there for a night would be ideal.

Other than these typical points of visit, you have Kakkabe which gets you closer to Kerala. The flavour is noticeable, whether it's the Igguthappa temple or the Nalnad Palace. By the way, the latter is more like a ''big house'' in a village. Nearby is Thadiyendamol [*], the second highest peak in Karnataka. Climbing it is tedious but said to be a trekker's delight. There are quite a few options for boarding and lodging here too.

I would recommend dropping anchor in Madikeri to visit all these places. Government and private buses seemed to be available to visit the various spots. Driving around Coorg is a great pleasure by itself. Resorts are available at many places and would be ideal for those who want to experience Coorg without moving around much.

''Home-stays'' are supposed to be the best option in Coorg. With the decline in the coffee business, many estates have opened up to visitors, converting bungalows and rooms as lodges and also providing food. We stayed in Shanti Estate near Madikeri and would highly recommend it. Places to eat in Madikeri are East End and Raj Darshan. Overall, commercialisation is kept to a minimum thankfully.

Weather is slightly colder than Bangalore, with mist being common. Surprisingly, there is a lot of sun even in the winter, without sweat though. Visiting Coorg a second time during the monsoon is definitely on my mind.

Between Bangalore and Coorg, one can also check out places like Brindavan Gardens and Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary. The latter was amazing, especially when we went on the boat tour. A variety of migratory birds were on display along with crocodiles.

A word on food on the way might be helpful. Maddur, Mandya and Mysore maybe good places for a meal. We waited till Hunsur and had a bad time, atleast one way. This is assuming that you leave Bangalore early in the morning and you plan to reach your staying place in Coorg by afternoon. The total driving time will be around six hours. Another option is to take a train to Mysore; you can either take a bus or cab from there.

''Scotland of the East'' is the epithet held by Coorg. I didn't feel such high praise was deserving, but possibly because I was mesmerised by Munnar only a few months before visiting Coorg. Nevertheless, it's a great 3-day getaway for folks in Bangalore.

Note: I haven't visited places marked with '[*]'.