Rajasthan Travelogues PART 6 - Bikaner. Review on Bikaner

Bikaner known as Red City is truly a great desert city situated at old caravan route linking Persia and North India in Thar Desert right middle of hostile fierce sandstorms. Until recent times, Bikaner used to be remote desert town that benefited lot of attention ever since Jaisalmer became major tourist attraction. It is situated in northwest Rajasthan just 300 km away from Jaipur.

History

After Mohammad Ghori destroyed Rathors at their Kanauj (Uttar Pradesh) kingdom in 1193, Rathors reestablished themselves in Marwar. Rao Jodha of Marwar built Jodhpur. Legend says his expansionist son, Bika became challenged after taunted remarks made by his father and set out north in hostile barren land of scrub desert. Supported by the blessing of a great female mystic, Karni Mata, whom he had met along the way and who had predicted his fame, Rao Bika fought the local desert clans for thirty years, and ultimately established his new kingdom Bikaner in 1486.

Bikaner prospered in 16th-20th century because of diplomatic strategic alliances with Mughals and British - Raja Rai Singh served as Akbar’s General, Trading best riding camels with the East India Company needed for Afghan war in exchange for its freedom in 19th century, Grouse shoots hunting parties organized for British viceroys in 20th century. After independence, Bikaner state merged into India and later resurrected by tourism industry to restore its connectivity with rest of India. Modern Bikaner is one of India’s rare cities with medieval culture where modern industrialization and ultramodern westernized culture hasn’t touched yet - you can still see women in colorful odhnis-lehenga-cholis, men in colorful pagadis, and camels transporting goods and carrying people.

My Experience

While I was on weeklong circular tour of Rajasthan in Feb 2005, I have my chances to enjoy one day in this amazingly dusty city called Bikaner. One of the most fascinating parts of Rajasthan road journey is roadside dhabas and if its in remote deserts then it adds lot more thrill. As we were driving from Jaipur to Bikaner and passed famous Shekhawati regions, we noticed rugged harsh desert touching both side of road, and one of my lifelong wish came true – Meal of vegetarian spicy Rajasthani food at the road side dhabas in middle of desert. We stopped by one of the most rustic looking dhaba in the middle of the desert, enjoyed delicious Rajasthan specialties like Dal Fry, Dal Baati, Besan Gatta, Churmu with Missi Roties, and relaxed in Khats under open sky.

Once we drove into Bikaner in late afternoon, by the time we checked in the motel and freshen up, it was almost evening time. Since there isn’t any time for sightseeing, we went for world famous spicy Bikaneri Bhujia Sev shopping at colorful bazaars. As many of you know, Bikaner is home of famous Haldiram but you will be surprised to know that local people are in favor of many other brands of bhujias. Among the other favorites is Bikaner Bhujia Bhandar as well as series of bhujia shops at station road. We tried bhujias and related savory snacks at almost every attractive bhujia centers. You can also visit Ghandhi Road for handicrafts, textiles, and miniature paintings shopping.

Next day morning, we woke up early and drove out to nearby Deshnok town in foggy desert just 32 km away to visit world famous 17th century Karni Mata temple. We stopped by one of road side dhabas for morning breakfast of Tea and Alu-Puri. Deserts in February are chilly and foggy and it was one of our most memorable early morning desert drives. Karni Mata temple is dedicated to Karni Mata, a goddess of Bikaner royal family, who was alive when Bika established Bikaner in 15th century. Karni Mata Temple is fine marble structure known for its sacred rats that roams freely around premise. Even though temples gates are open mostly during daytime, they say rats never leave temple premise. They say rats are reincarnated into holy man and most fascinating story is temple never witnessed any plague in its 500-year history. After I visited this temple, I had mixed feelings. On one side, I was pleasantly surprised to see unbelievable facts seen through my eyes and on other side, this is one of most slinkier, spookier, and unkempt temple I ever seen.

After we came back to city, we visited Bikaner’s main attraction and arguably best-kept fort in India – Red sandstone Janagarh Fort built in 1593 by Raja Rai Singh. Area in and around Bikaner is dry, rusty, and ever shifting sand plains, so fort lays at the center of the city looks like hidden jewel. Unlike Amber fort of Jaipur or Golden fort of Jailsalmer or Mehrangarh fort of Jodhpur, it’s not situated at the high of hill so; at first sight it’s not majestic. Infect, when you drive around town’s main streets following around fort’s 986m (3235 ft) walls with 37 bastions, you might never notice impressive fort lies inside walls. Since this fort never had been conquered, it’s been greatly preserved.

When we drove into Janagarh Fort through imposing elephant entrance of fort, I wasn’t expecting what I was going to experience. Once we drove all the way into main courtyard and parked our car, I was aghast by impressive structure of red sandstone. Once we entered into Palace through main gate after buying tickets, we followed fort-guided tour. As you walk through open courtyards, pavilions, decorated palaces, temples, narrow passages, mammoth gateways, stiff staircases leading into different sections of fort, you will be mesmerized by the beauty of fort. We visited Anup Mahal – Hall of private audience, Karan Mahal – Hall of public audience, Chandra Mahal – queen’s palace, Phool Mahal – Rao Bika’s palace, Hawa Mahal, and Durbar Niwas converted into fort museum with World War I fighter aircraft. Most impressive of them is highest point of fort, Badal Mahal – king’s fantasy spot in dry desert - painted with blue clouds, yellow lightings is pleasantly contrast to remain red sandstone buildings in fort.

Our next stop was another fort, Lalgarh Palace built in 1926 by Maharaja Ganga Singh. Lalgarh Palace is a beautiful red sandstone fort surrounded by beautiful gardens in the middle of desert. Part of this palace is converted into Hotel, part of where royal family still lives, and part of converted into museum. Only museum section is allowed to see for visitors and we took our quick self-guided tour of museum of vintage photographs, impressive red sandstone craft, and wildlife trophies.

In the evening, we went to visit central government managed Camel Breeding Farm situated at 9km southwest of Bikaner. Its official name is “The National Research Center on Camel, Bikaner”. You can drink thick camel milk or see tiny camel calves or listen camel breeder's stories or experience camel maintenance through your eyes. It is advised to visit this place in evening when most of all camels are back from grazing. You will see how they develop and maintain elite Indian breeds – Bikaneri, Jaisalmeri, Kachchi.

Other Attractions

(#) Devi Kund (9km) – Royal crematorium and cenotaphs

(#) Bhandeshwar and Neminath Sandeshwar Jain Temples - 16th century temples located on the outskirts of Bikaner

(#) Camel safaris – Camel excursions into the desert