After spending a few years in the wilderness, followed by 3 years in Hyderabad (1 yr) and Pune (2 yrs), I have come back to Agra. Back because I have stayed here before. After spending 2 months here, here is my initial impression of the place.
It is a city caught in a time warp. There ois almost no change, except few cosmetic ones from what I experienced 10 years ago. Yes, there are more bikes on the road and some new stores struggling to make an impression. However, scratch a little deeper and the same grit and grime is evident. Traffic is horrible, with everyone wanting to get ahead at the same time. If ever we come to the age of flying cars, Agra will be the first to adopt it, for sure. Youngsters and the not so young have their thumbs on the horn as they drive or rather swerve through traffic, maybe all are blessed with nine lives here and they know it.
The main market of Sanjay Place and Sadar Bazaar seem to be holding still in time. Some new showrooms have opened up which exist in close harmony with familiar street vendors and smaller shops. The overall appearance is of an aging diva trying hard to look attractive by applying an overdose of cosmetics.
Some malls had opened up a few years ago but have since closed down or are on their last legs. Few multiplexes do function but do not see much patronage. Maybe the ticket cost is too high or the location is wrong or both.
Some big chains have made an appearance, Reliance Fresh, Shoppers Stop, Easy Day etc but they are actually caricatures of their stores in bigger cities. Even they seem to be denying the 'City of Taj' a decent treatment.
The Taj however, stands majestic and in company of Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri, attracts tourists from far and wide. The guide, cab driver, rickshaw puller, shopkeeper nexus is at its best, like any other tourist spot in the world. Tourists, beware and look out for yourself. The brave souls who do come here and justly rewarded by the stunning view of the Taj and the marvellous architecture of the Taj, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri. Maybe the squalor all around makes these places seem even more grand.
The locals are just like any other small town of UP. The youngsters are aspirational and eager to adopt the new age life and get into the fast lane but trapped by circumstances and tradition. Coaching classes abound; if only a magic formula to success could be taught! Tempers run high at the smallest provocation. The govt seems to be trying to break the mould and blow new life into the city but the progress is halting at best. A sincere push is required to get the city out of its chains of decay and ennui else it may just remain a footnote in the geography of India; a sad commentary for a city that is home to the most beautiful monument to love in the world.
