The Story of Kellie’s Fortune Born in 1870 to a farmer’s wife, Kellie adopted his mother's maiden name. From Kellas, a small town in Scotland, 20 year old William Kellie Smith came to Malaysia in 1890. He worked for Alma Baker, an estate-owner, supervising the construction of public roads in Perak and made a fortune, purchasing acres of jungle land in the Kinta district to plant rubber, which was in great demand, and diversified into tin mining. Owner of the Kinta Kellas Estate and Kinta Kellas Tin Dredging Company, he probably chose the names as he was born in Easter Kellas.
The Folly of Love In 1903, he went home to marry Agnes, his sweetheart. Back in Malaysia, the following year, the couple had a daughter, Helen, but, for years after, Agnes could not conceive again, though Smith wanted a male heir.
Devotion He first built "Kellas House", in 1905 or 1910, for his wife and first child, but it was partially destroyed during the Second World War. Located beside Kellie's Castle, the ruins of this house can still be seen - just the foundation and parts of the wall.
In 1915, Agnes finally gave birth to a boy, Anthony. Smith’s fortunes rose to greater heights and he decided to expand his mansion to celebrate the birth of his son. Smith planned a huge castle which he wanted to name Kellas House.
Ambition He had dreams of hosting majestic parties on its rooftop courtyard, for the area's colonial planters and administrators, with the first elevator in the country to connect right up to the top floor. On the second floor, an indoor tennis court was planned. So unique was this project that it even figured in the London Financier newspaper in 1911.
With its six-storey tower, wine cellar, stately columns, Moorish arches, walls decorated with Greco-Roman motifs, rooms for Smith's offspring, a hall, and place of worship, the mansion also has two secret tunnels that run under the nearby Kinta river. One of these tunnels connects to a nearby Hindu temple.
However, most of these ambitious projects remain half completed and the tunnel has now been sealed.
Fantasy Smith seems to have been fascinated with Hinduism and Indian culture and planned the architecture to be in the then Madras style. All the bricks and tiles were brought over from Madras as well as 70 skilled Indian labourers who slaved to bring an authentic touch to Kellas House. The descendants of those labourers still live nearby.
Tragedy Strikes Halfway through the construction, "Spanish flu"(spread from Europe to Asia, after the First World War) first wiped out many workers in the Kellas Estate and went on to decimate another seventy who were at work on the castle. Obviously, this made a huge dent in Kellie's fortune.
Superstition He got a Hindu temple built nearby in an effort to appease the gods. But it seems not to have been enough and he returned to Europe in 1926 where, at the age of 56, he died of pneumonia, in Portugal.
Agnes sold the castle to Harrisons and Crosfield(a British company with links in Sri Lanka) and also returned to Scotland.
For years Kellie's Folly was neglected. The jungle took over.
In the Limelight Today However, the building has become a tourist attraction after the government refurbished it in 2000. Kellie's Castle was a setting for a scene in the 1999 Anna and the King, with Jodie Foster and Chow Yun-Fat and the 2000 film Skyline Cruisers.
Creepy The exposed lift shaft poses a danger to the unwary. For reasons of safety, the tunnels have been sealed off. The brickwork of the main building and four-storey tower is in sharp contrast with the apricot-coloured plasterwork of the ruined roofless structure behind, making it a bizarre sight. Sculptures of the family still stand on the outer wall, though the one of wife, Agnes, fell down some years back.
Our Visit We went there with a dear friend and her children. It was a lively time we had, walking the mysterious ruins of incomplete grandeur.
Trivia Though we did not visit it, do walk to the Hindu temple, constructed to appease the gods, after the tragedy of the Spanish flu. It should be amusing to behold Kellie in his planter's suit and topee among sixty deities on the roof of the temple.
Apparently, one of Kellie's car is parked somewhere in one of the tunnels!
The latest discovery is a tree that resembles "a bear hugging a tree", in the castle compound.
Timings Daily 9:00am to 6:00pm. You can get a briefing at the ticketing booth where there is also some documentation on the notice board.
Entrance Fee Primary School Children: RM2.00; Secondary School Children: RM3.00; Adult: RM4.00
GettingTo Kellie's Castle
By Rail The closest station is Batu Gajah. From there, take a taxi or Omnibus for Gopeng. Ask to be dropped off at Kellie's Castle.
By Bus Many local buses leave for Batu Gajah from the intrastate Bus Station. Ask to be dropped off at Kellie's Castle.
Directions by Car from Kuala Lumpur Head for the PLUS North South Expressway and exit the Gopeng Toll Plaza. From there, take a right turn to Gopeng town. After passing the town, a sign directs you to turn left to Kellie's Castle. Keep going on this Gopeng-Batu Gajah road and you will soon see the mansion to the left.
Address KM 5.5, Jalan Gopeng, Batu Gajah, Perak
Telephone+605 365 1336
Ideally, a visit would take two to three hours and you can also visit Ipoh or go to the Cameron Highlands.
Nearby Attractions The Tempurung Cave, biggest limestone cave in Peninsular Malaysia, is nearby.
There is also the Sam Poh Tong cave, along Jalan Gopeng, where you can taste the famous Tambun Pomelo, from the same family as the grapefruit.
The Clear Water Sanctuary Golf Resort is also located in the vicinity.
